How to make a chair out of wood with your own hands? Instructions for self-assembly of a wooden chair, drawings and recommendations How to assemble a wooden chair

You can make comfortable furniture for your dacha or loggia yourself. A transforming chair is quite a practical thing. If necessary, it can always be compactly folded and put away until required.

A transforming chair is quite a practical thing.

Assembling a folding chair with your own hands takes 2-3 hours. To make this simple furniture, the cheapest materials are suitable - wooden blocks of different lengths, fastenings, etc. All this can be found both at home and in the nearest hardware store. The question of how to make a folding chair is usually relevant for skillful owners and can be easily resolved.

For the manufacture of this simple furniture, the cheapest materials are suitable - wooden blocks of different lengths, fastenings, etc.

Making home or garden furniture with your own hands has a number of significant advantages over purchased products:

• cheapness;
• the ability to come up with a special design;
• no need to waste time searching for a suitable option.

You can make comfortable furniture for your dacha or loggia yourself.

A chair you assemble yourself can be much stronger and more comfortable because you think through all the details. To make a sample, all tools and materials are often at hand. You can also decorate a folding chair using available materials - zealous owners can always find fabric or remnants of wallpaper in their household supplies.

A chair you assemble yourself can be much stronger and more comfortable because you think through all the details.

Furniture that you create yourself is often more practical. To assemble a folding chair with your own hands, you can choose a durable type of wood, this will extend the life of the product. In addition, it can be made more compact, with exactly the right dimensions.

To make a sample, all the tools and materials are often at hand.

Design and construction: what to choose?

A chair assembled at home with your own hands can be made in several versions. For manufacturing, it is best to prepare a drawing with accurate calculations. This way you will actually see the future result and be able to follow what you planned.

Making a folding chair begins with making the seat.

A folding chair can be made with either a rectangular or a rounded back. The seat can be made the same way.

You can also decorate a folding chair using available materials - zealous owners can always find fabric or remnants of wallpaper in their household supplies.

Required materials and tools

To make a piece of furniture you will need wooden blocks. Choose hard species - for example, birch or pear, so that the product will last longer. For a wide seat and backrest, you may need a solid board (or chipboard). For the first option, select:

• fastenings - a set of bolts or screws, nuts for bolts, as well as washers;
• self-tapping screws;
• wood hacksaw;
• for the front legs - bars 740 mm long (2 pcs.);
• for the rear legs - bars 470 mm long (2 pcs.);
• for the slats of the back and seat - bars 320 mm long (5–8 pcs.);
• for frame crossbars - bars 430 mm long (3 pcs.);
• sandpaper.

Furniture that you create yourself is often more practical.

To assemble the chair quickly and effortlessly, use the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• screwdriver

The created folding chair is more pleasant to use because it is made with love.

If you are going to cover a folding chair, then stock up on foam rubber and fabric for covering the back and seat, as well as a construction stapler and staples.

In addition, it can be made more compact, with exactly the right dimensions.

A chair assembled at home with your own hands can be made in several versions.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Choose hard species - for example, birch or pear, so that the product will last longer.

To make a piece of furniture you will need wooden blocks.

Making a folding chair begins with making the seat. We connect the sized slats to the support bars using self-tapping screws.

For a wide seat and backrest, you may need a solid board (or chipboard).

Then you need to make a support structure from the front legs and back. Attach slats for the backrest to the legs on top, and a crossbar at the bottom.

A folding chair can be beautifully decorated to give it a individual look.

After this, make the back supports. It is necessary to attach two crossbars to them - lower and upper.

Let's look at an example of the implementation of the simplest design option - making a chair with a back and seat made of slats.

Connect both resulting frames - rear and front - using nuts and bolts.

A chair you made yourself can be decorated using the decoupage technique.

Attach the seat to the front frame. Drill through holes in it and the seat supports. Connect the structure with bolts. All fasteners that extend to the surface of the back or seat must be “recessed” so that they do not stick out.

Attach slats for the backrest to the legs on top, and a crossbar at the bottom.

If the process is performed correctly, the seat will move freely in the frame. When unfolded rear end the seat will rest against the crossbar of the rear frame. Thus, you will get a full-fledged chair that can be easily returned to its original position.

Before making the product, the wooden parts must be measured, sawn to size and sanded so that they are smooth and without burrs.

The reverse order of folding the chair requires raising the seat slightly and assembling the front and back frames.

It is necessary to make a supporting structure from the front legs and back.

After work, check the product for stability. You can place the furniture on the balcony or large kitchen. The chair is convenient to take with you on a picnic or to the country house.

If you plan to make the chair yourself, then prepare a free space for the work and place oilcloth or thick paper so that the process goes smoothly.

Decoration

A folding chair can be beautifully decorated to give it a personalized look. Upholstery fabric is suitable as finishing. To make the seat and/or back soft, use foam rubber of small height (4-5 cm) for filling, and stretch the facing fabric on top. A tapestry or any other dense material will do. Fold the fabric along the edges and carefully secure with staples using a stapler.

If you plan to use the folding chair regularly, you can make the seat and back with soft upholstery.

A chair you made yourself can be decorated using the decoupage technique. Take old wallpaper or pieces of tapestry and paste them onto the slats of the seat and backrest. The plant (floral) pattern in fairly bright shades looks interesting. The legs and supports around the perimeter can be painted in a single color, similar in shade to the decor.

A folding chair can be made with either a rectangular or a rounded back.

The easiest way to decorate is to apply a pattern to the surface of the seat and backrest. To do this, use durable paints that do not wash off with water.

For variety, you can decorate the back with carvings if you choose the option with a solid board. A chair coated with matte varnish with a woody tint looks good.

For manufacturing, it is best to prepare a drawing with accurate calculations.

VIDEO: How to make a folding chair with your own hands

Craftsman Tom McLaughlin designed this chair by combining elements from different furniture styles without sacrificing comfort for beauty. Using templates it is easy to make curved parts. Tom uses three machines to make joints: a band saw, a circular saw and a slotting machine (you can use a drill press with a slotting attachment instead). Having completed the carpentry part of the work, complement the chair with a comfortable seat, which is made in a simple and proven way.

Think carefully before you cut

The design of a chair consists of many parts that require attention and concentration in their manufacture and fitting. Here's what Tom advises.

Shape the legs

1. Using the diagrams as a guide, draw the contours of the posterior leg A life size (Fig. 1). Glue the drawing onto 6mm hardboard and cut out a template, marking the position of the sockets on it. Trace the outline of the template onto the back leg blank and cut with a band saw, keeping the cut close to the contour line. Then cut out the second back leg.

Tom advises! To achieve a better appearance, The texture pattern on the anterior side of both hind legs should be mirror symmetrical. To do this, when marking the contours, useswarm legs turn the template over, swapping its ends (photo A). Then you need to place several legs side by side along the width of the board. This ensures that you get paired parts that look like reflections in a mirror. (photo B).

2. Using double-sided tape, glue the template to the sawn leg blank. Secure a long pin in the collet of the router installed in the table.

piercing cutter with a bearing and adjust its offset, aligning the bearing with the edge of the template. Contour the back legs to the final shape. Mark the top and bottom of each leg with a pencil, remove the template and sand the legs to the outline lines.

3. Cut out the front legs IN(“List of Materials” and rice. 1). Mark those front edges. Angle the saw blade at a 7° angle and cut a bevel on the outside of each leg so that the front edge is wider than the back edge. Without changing the inclination of the disk, cut out two strips of wedge-shaped section 250-300 mm long, which will be required when selecting nests in the legs, under the same corner from the scraps.

Cut out the blanks for the back parts

1. Cut out the bottom crossbar WITH backrests (Fig. 4), but don't make bevels on its top edge just yet. Mark the positions of the four sockets.

2. Cut out the top crossbar D backrests (Fig. 5) with an allowance of 10 mm in length. Make two copies of the top rail template. Glue one copy to the bottom edge, but don't cut out the curved shape yet.

3. For the middle board E and side bars F backrests, make a blank measuring 13 x 178 x 533 mm (Fig. 6). You will saw off the side pieces later after cutting the tenons.

Select all slots

1. Mark the position of the sockets on the legs A, B (Fig. 1 and2) , remembering that the parts must be mirror copies.

2. Select a 10mm socket for the front drawer G in the front legs B (photo C, rice. 2). Rotate the front leg IN so that its beveled edge is adjacent to the stop on the table of the slotting or drilling machine (photoD) and make a 10mm angled socket for the side drawer N. Do the same with the second front leg.

WEDGES WILL HELP INSTALL PARTS IN THE RIGHT POSITION

To ensure that the walls of the socket are parallel to the front edge, place the leg with the beveled edge down, placing a wedge-shaped strip underneath.

Place the part with the front edge on the wedge and use the second to secure it in the clamp. Do not use a second wedge if your machine does not have one.

3. If you do not have a large enough piece of workpiece left over from sawing out the rear legs, make a curved support (tsulaga) measuring 90x525 mm (photo E) from scraps whose thickness is equal to or slightly less than the thickness of the leg. It will help hold the leg at the desired angle when selecting a socket for the side drawer.

Transfer the outer marks of the drawer socket to a piece of board, trace the leg template and cut out the curved support-tsulaga with a band saw.

Align the marking lines of the nest on the leg and the tsulag. If the leg rests on the machine table, the socket will be selected at an angle.

4. Using a curved support (photoF), select in the back leg A 10mm socket for side drawer N. Do the same with the second back leg.

5. To select 10mm sockets for the lower backrest rail WITH in the hind legs A Press the flat edge of the leg (in which the previous socket was just made) against the machine stop and select a socket on the inside of the part.

6. Make an 8mm socket for the top rail D dorsum at the top of the hind legs A on the inside, pressing the front side of the part against the stop.

7. Select 6mm sockets in the bottom rail WITH backrests for middle board E and side bars F (Fig. 4).

8. Make the same 6mm sockets on the bottom edge of the top crossbar D for middle board E (Fig. 5). Making nests for the side bars F, insert a 4° wedge between the crossbar D and emphasis (step 2).

Now cut out the thorns

1. Make the simple tenon saw shown in the article “Safely and Easily Sawing Tenons.”

2. To cut tenons in three sizes, use the scraps to make three spacers with a thickness of 6, 8 and 10 mm, as well as a spacer whose thickness is equal to the thickness of the saw blade. The width of the spacers is 75-100 mm.

To cut 10 mm tenons on frames G, H, select a spacer of the required thickness for the first cut. Remove it before the second cut.

3. Cut out the front G and lateral N seat drawers (Fig. 7). Holding the appropriate spacers between the fixture and the part with your hand or a clamp (photoG), file at a 90° angle the cheeks of the tenons at the ends of the front G and lateral N tsarg, lower WITH and top D backrest crossbars, as well as on the blank of the middle board and side bars E/F backrests (Fig. 4, 5, 6 And 7).

Note. On the side drawers N Form 90° tenons only on the front end of the pieces.

(Although the backrest top rail tenons should have a final length of 17mm, make them 22mm long at this stage so you don't have to set up your saw specifically for this.)

Tom advises! Having made cuts on test scraps to form the cheeks of the tenons, remove excess material using band saw, but leave an allowance of about 6 mm at the shoulders to avoid jamming the trim between the disk and the longitudinal stop of the sawing machine. Check the fit of the test studs to the appropriate sockets. If the tenon is inserted too loosely, stick one or two strips of masking tape onto the spacer and cut out another test tenon.

Using the same settings, but tilting the saw blade at an angle of 7°, press the outer side of the drawer against the jig and cut out the tenon cheeks.

4. Attach a wooden pad to the head of the cross (angular) stop and make it in the lower and upper crossbars C, D, in preparation for the middle board and side bars E/F, as well as in the front drawer G cuts that form the shoulders of the tenons.

5. Tilt the saw blade at an angle of 7° from the vertical and file the cheeks of the oblique tenon with a thickness of 10 mm at the rear end of the side frames N (photo N).

6. Without changing the angle of the saw blade, form the shoulders of the front and rear tenons on the side frames at an angle (photoI, J, TO).

Make the first cut so that the disc barely touches the cheek of the tenon. Using a crowbar and a marking knife, extend the line at an angle of 7° to the edge where you want to make the second shoulder. Finally, place the part on the other side of the disk and cut out the second shoulder according to the marking.

7. Increase the saw blade angle to 8°. Form the cheeks and shoulders of 6 mm thick oblique tenons on the lower end of the middle board and side bars E/F just like in 5 steps And 6 (Fig. 6a). Return the saw blade to a vertical position and use longitudinal cuts to separate the side bars F from each edge of the workpiece. Using a jigsaw and chisel, cut a notch in the middle of a wide tenon on both ends of the middle board E (Fig. 6) and add 6mm wide cutouts around the edges (see DIY Tip below).

Make the first cross cut with a jigsaw from one rip cut to the back edge of the other. Then saw off the rest.

Hone your hand tool skills for a precise midplank fit

Making a cutout in the middle of a wide tenon using only machines or power tools is not easy. There is a better solution. Using a band saw or a well-sharpened back saw, make cuts up to the shoulders of the tenon, then use a jigsaw, the narrow blade of which will easily turn in the cut, to remove the excess, leaving a small allowance at the base. Finally, use a chisel to cut the remainder flush with the hangers.

Point the chisel inward at a slight angle. This guarantees the tightness of the joint along the hanger line.

8. Form the upper shoulders of the tenons on the front and side drawers G, N (Fig. 7). Shorten the ends of the top rail tenons D by 5 mm.

9. Dry (without glue) assemble the chair frame, adjusting the tenons of too tight joints using a chisel or file. First, insert the middle board and side timbers into the slots of the top and bottom backrest rails, and then fit the tenons of the rails into the slots of the back legs. Then start adjusting the tenons of the sides to the sockets of the legs. Once you have completed adjusting all connections, separate the parts.

Process all curved contours and narrowings

1. Using a band saw, shape curved surfaces on the front and back sides of the top rail D backs and then sand smooth.

With three fingers pressed against the front of the piece, draw a line from the top parallel to the front edge.

2. Glue a second copy of the top crossbar template onto a piece of 6mm hardboard and file along the outline. Using this template, mark the bevel boundaries on the top and back sides of the piece. The marking line on the top side should be parallel to the front rib (photoL). Tilt the band saw table at an angle of 27 0 and file the bevel along both lines. Sand all curved surfaces smoothly.

3. Mark and band saw the 16° bevels at the ends of the bottom rail C (Fig. 4). Then tilt the saw blade at an angle of 22° and cut the longitudinal bevels. Remove saw marks using a small plane. Using the top rail template, mark an arc on the bottom edge of the bottom rail. Cut out the arc with a bandsaw and sand smooth.

4. Using a band saw, make tapers on the back A and front IN legs (Fig. 1 And 2). Smoothly sand or sharpen the sawn edges.

Sequentially mill chamfers of different widths according to the markings. Then use a small plane and scraper to smooth out the transitions between them.

5. Place marks on the back of the rear legs A at a distance of 178, 470 and 533 mm from the upper ends. Attach an edge cutter for chamfers at an angle of 45° in the router collet and mill successively chamfers of different widths (on both sides of each leg): 6 mm wide from the top to the 533 mm mark, 8 mm wide between the 178 and 533 mm marks, 11 mm wide from 470 mark to last (photo M).

At the 533 mm mark, use a semicircular rasp to round and smooth the chamfer, achieving a smooth rounding.

Note. At the upper end of the leg, the chamfers and the middle flat bevel should be the same width. Do not make the chamfer too wide so that it ends below the shoulder line of the top seat rail.

6. Using a miter plane, make small chamfers around the bottom ends of all legs. A, B. At the upper end of the hind legs A chamfer 3 mm wide at the front and sides (Fig. 1). Then make a 12mm bevel at the back.

7. Finish all parts with 220-grit sandpaper using a sanding block.

Tom advises! Before the final sanding step, change all surfaces to raise the pile. This will avoid raising lint when removing wet sponge to remove excess adhesive and you won't have to sand in awkward places around joints.

Move on to assembly and finishing

1. Glue in the middle board tenons E and side bars F into the sockets of the upper and lower crossbars D, C backrests Then glue this assembly to the back legs A. Glue the front drawer G between the front legs IN. After thorough drying, glue in the spikes on the side drawers. N into the sockets of the front and rear legs B, A, fixing the assembled chair frame with clamps.

2. Cut out the front and rear corner braces I, J and install them in place using glue and screws to strengthen the connections between the legs and the drawers and make it easier to install the seat.

3. Apply any finishing coating according to your choice. (Tom recommends three coats of Danish oil or any varnish polish.)

4. Make the seat base K and cover it (Fig. 3 And 9). Once you've finished upholstering, attach the seat to the corner braces I, J screws 4.5×50 mm.

Templates

About the author of the project

Tom McLaughlin began carpentry professionally in North Carolina, initially copying classic designs made by famous 18th-century craftsmen. Tom now lives in New Hampshire, where he trains woodworkers in his own workshop - a large three-story mansion surrounded by maples, birches and oaks. He enjoys designing and making new chairs more than anything else. “The challenge of making them as comfortable as possible and looking flawless from all angles sparks a real creative passion in me.” He has designed more than two dozen chairs that have won numerous awards in design competitions.

Those who are familiar with arranging their home “from scratch” know that this is a very expensive pleasure, from interior decoration to the purchase of furniture. And even such a seemingly insignificant trifle as a chair can cost a pretty penny. One well-made, but completely ordinary chair costs a lot of money, but you need at least three of them. What to do when guests come to celebrate a housewarming? The experience of building chairs with your own hands will help you not only save money on the family budget, but will allow you to create your own original designs that will match the character of the interior and your preferences. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a chair from wood.

Almost any wood is suitable for making a chair, but it is best to start with the cheapest, for example, pine. Later, when you have mastered the basic skills of handling turning tools, you can “swing” at oak, teak, cherry or other elite species. When choosing lumber for a future chair, you should take into account the pliability of the wood, its color, durability and other characteristics. Thus, oak is very hard, and over time its color becomes darker, and the darker the oak product, the more noble and beautiful it is considered. Stain is a special substance for treating wood that has coloring properties. It does not cover the texture, but makes the surface a tone darker, allowing you to create the effect of an expensive rock. Thus, you can make the same cherry or merbau from pine in a couple of hours. To make a chair you will need ordinary turning tools: hacksaw or jigsaw; sanding machine or sandpaper of various grain sizes; drill and set of drills; wood screws; screwdriver; hammer; stain (if necessary); varnish or paint for finishing the product. A little about the finishing of the chair. If you want to preserve the beautiful texture of the wood, coat it with clear (or tinted) varnish. If you plan to use the chair outside, for example, in the garden or on an open veranda, it is better to coat it with PF-170 alkyd varnish or Yacht varnish - these products will protect the wood from fading under the sun and humidity. For “home” chairs, use a special furniture varnish. Nitro varnishes dry quickly, but they emit a pungent odor, so it is better to work with them on a balcony or in a well-ventilated area. Wooden stool For those new to the world of DIY furniture, it's best to start with something simpler, like a stool. This is an elementary design, the manufacture of which will give an idea of ​​the basic subtleties of working with wood. If you decide to make a chair from pine, be prepared for the fact that you will have to tinker with sanding, especially if you don’t have a sander. As an alternative, you can use beech - it is quite inexpensive, has a beautiful texture and is easy to work with. Materials for the stool For the stool you will need to make 4 bars with a square section of 40 mm, 8 bars of 40x20 mm for the crossbars and a square seat with a side of 350 mm. For the seat, you can use furniture board or thick plywood. Of course, you can knock it down from boards, but a solid surface looks more aesthetically pleasing. We propose to make a classic stool designed for an adult of average height. The height of the legs will be 42 cm, and they will be held together by crossbars 21 cm long. Before sawing off the excess part, carefully check the evenness of the intended line and compliance with the dimensions. Contrary to the well-known proverb, this should not be done seven times, but at least a couple. Sanding the stool When the blanks are sawn, the silhouette of the future stool begins to emerge, but it is still very early to assemble it. First, you need to carefully sand all parts of the structure so as not to plant a splinter in the future. If the surface is very rough, use #4 sandpaper. When you have more or less smoothed out the knots and the surface becomes rough, wipe it with a damp cloth - the water will lift the small short fibers, after which they can be removed with No. 2 sandpaper. You need to “raise” the wood fibers until the surface becomes perfectly smooth, each time reducing the number of sandpaper. In this regard, an electric grinder is very helpful. Assembling the stool Finally, you can start assembling the stool. How to do this is intuitively clear, but there are still some subtleties here. How to assemble a stool with your own hands: Helpful advice: Before painting, make holes for future fasteners and do not screw the screws into them completely. Once you have painted the piece, you can tie a thread to this screw and hang the leg or crossbar in the air. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the top part dries, then turn the element over and paint it from below, and this is fraught with the above-mentioned spots and stains. If you feel a craving for creativity or want to involve children in creating an original interior for the family “nest,” you can paint the chair before varnishing it. Use for this acrylic paints or regular gouache. The decoupage technique is also very popular, which will allow you to create a beautiful drawing even without artistic abilities. Chair with back If you have successfully completed the manufacture of a stool, we suggest making a “full-fledged” wooden chair with your own hands. For such a product, you can already choose more solid wood - oak or walnut, for example. In addition to lumber, you will need screws, wood glue, the tools described above and a cutter. If it is not possible to work on a machine, use a set of chisels and a hammer. For tinting you can use the same stain. Below is a table describing the number and sizes of parts needed to make a chair with a backrest. At first glance, it seems that there are too many of them (especially when compared with a stool), but such a chair will turn out to be very comfortable and will serve for many decades. To make the task easier for you, we have prepared a visual plan for subsequent assembly with numbered parts. In the future, to create your own exclusive furniture, you will have to make a drawing of a wooden chair yourself. Work progress: Making chairs from wood is a very interesting and creative process, which over time can develop into a useful hobby. Once you learn how to make basic designs, you can diversify the process by adding your own details, using wood carving tools, and combining different materials. Anyone can make wooden furniture, but you can start with an ordinary kitchen stool! Wooden chairs: photo What do you imagine when you hear the phrase “wooden chair”? An ordinary stool or a bulky, roughly processed structure? We have prepared a photo selection of original wooden chairs that will significantly expand your understanding of this piece of furniture.

These chairs have a very simple and durable design. The back legs and backrests are made from one piece of wood, 25 mm thick. It's best to make a template for the chair leg, and cut it with a bandsaw.

The next task is to make the edges semicircular. By using milling machine and a corresponding cutter, make a semicircle on the chair legs.

The back of the chair is a little more difficult to assemble, so when clamping, straighten it immediately and maintain evenness.

The front legs and bridges are a little easier to glue and assemble. Pay attention to the two small clamps on the corners, this is done so that there is full contact when gluing.

The next step is to connect the front and back parts. Be sure to place the chair on a flat surface during this step. If the chair is slightly uneven, or rather will wobble, you can install the clamp diagonally to compensate in the opposite direction.

Once everything is glued and the glue is completely dry, remove excess glue with a chisel. It's best to leave the glue until it's completely dry so you don't risk spreading it over a wider area by wiping it off.

Next important point is a place to sit.

The seat is actually a simple square piece of wood, 42.5cm along the grain, 42cm across the grain, 16mm thick, with the back corners cut out.

To install the seat, glue another mount onto the apron, in which holes should be drilled for attaching the seat. The holes are also made so that when the humidity changes, it does not crack at the points where the screws are clamped.

Do you want to update your interior with a new piece of furniture? Make a chair from natural wood with your own hands, which will not only be beautiful in appearance, but also useful in everyday life.

Ready-made drawings with dimensions will make the process easier for beginners in carpentry.

Which tree to choose

To make a chair from natural wood, you can use the following lumber:

• boards;
• beam;
• array;
• logs

In most cases, they resort to a combination of several types of materials, each of them performs its own function in the structure.

You can buy ready-made materials or, if available necessary equipment, make it yourself. For this you will need quality logs. When choosing logs, pay attention to their appearance: presence of knots, cracks, fungal diseases. Examine the top layer of wood - sometimes logs are tinted to improve their consumer properties.

If you decide to purchase lumber for a chair, you should pay attention to the following recommendations:

1. 1. The timber and boards must be dry, with smooth edges and no cracks. Pay attention to distortions - only minor deviations are allowed, as well as the presence of holes (with a diameter of 2 to 4 mm), symptoms of rot, mold.
   2. The boards have a thickness of up to 100 mm, timber - from 100 mm.

1. Solid wood is a material that contains exclusively natural wood without any impurities. Choosing an array involves finding the type of wood that is best suited for creating.
2. It is preferable to make chairs from oak or mahogany - these varieties are known for their excellent decorative and practical qualities (strength, durability, easy to process).
3. Other suitable materials include pine and beech.

Important! It is necessary to stock up on wood, bars and boards in a slightly larger volume than is calculated for production, since there is a possibility of spoiling or breaking one of the parts.

Drawings with dimensions

The process of making a chair begins with creating a drawing. If this is your first product, it is best to abandon the intricate designs and try to make a chair of the simplest design with a fabric seat upholstery. You can use the drawing below (all dimensions are in millimeters):

Materials and tools

In the process of making a chair you will need the following materials:

• boards (thickness – 10-15 mm);
• timber (parameters – 40 by 60 mm and 40 by 40 mm);
• sanding paper;
• foam rubber and durable fabric;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture glue.

If you intend to make the bars yourself, then for this you need to acquire special equipment. Woodworking tools:

• construction stapler;
• saw;
• conductors for furniture;
• plane;
• chisel;
• mallet;
• jigsaw (electric);
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Description of work stages

Step 1. Prepare a beam: one is needed for the back of the chair (80 cm in length), the second for the legs located in front (44 cm). Make holes in the bars at the same height - they are needed for the base.
The manufactured parts need to be laid on top of each other and the cuts of the legs should be aligned. Mark the location of the holes.
You need to make two holes on the adjacent chair legs so that you end up with a kind of rectangle standing on the legs.

Step 2. Taking advantage chisel, make holes where the marks are. Get rid of sawdust clear legs.

Step 3. Make 2 longitudinal slats and 2 runners (horizontal pieces that connect the bottom of the chair legs). For this, take 4 bars with markings for future tenons. Their dimensions should correspond to about 10–12 mm.
Mark and cut the tenons as carefully as possible, as they must fit firmly into the holes. Make sure there are no gaps.

Step 4. At the next stage, the back is made. For its base, it is better to take an edged board. Make holes on the inside of the rear supports so that they correspond to the height and thickness of the backrest - the grooves are intended for its fastening. The seat is fixed using screws. To make the chair sufficiently rigid, attach small braces.

Step 5. Treat the back and legs of the chair from the outside so that they have rounded form and then polish their.

Step 6. The base of the future chair needs to be treated varnish and polish. It is best to purchase an odorless, water-based varnish. Wait until the structural elements are completely will dry out.

Step 7 If you want to make a chair with a soft seat, take foam rubber of the required size and wrap it in a fairly thick fabric. Attach the foam to the seat using a staple gun.

Step 8 The process of assembling a wooden chair begins immediately after processing all structural elements. The spikes need to be coated well with glue and driven into the grooves using a mallet. In order not to damage the varnish coating of the chair, you need to strike as much as possible. carefully.

Step 9 The last step is screwing the seat and backrest to the base of the chair. To attach furniture screws, use suitable drill bits.
The screw heads can be masked using PVA glue and sawdust. Mix these two ingredients and apply them to the caps. After treating the chair with varnish, the screws become almost invisible.

ABOUT Based on the manufacturing principle, in the future you will be able to take on more complex designs - chairs with curly legs and backs, with armrests, carved chairs, and also independently repair a wooden chair. You might want to make something original or surprise your friends copyright a product of unusual design.

Watch the video for a master class on making a chair from solid wood: