Raspberry flower. Common raspberries - propagation and care. Where can I buy such cuttings?

Raspberries in the photo

Raspberries belong to the Rosaceae family. Homeland - Central Europe, Asia, America.

Raspberries are plants whose berries have been used by people since time immemorial. Archaeologists have repeatedly discovered its seeds during excavations of human sites dating back to the Stone and Bronze Ages. Wild raspberries are very widespread in Europe and Asia. It was first described by the Roman scientist Pliny the Elder (1st century AD). Later, the botanist Carl Linnaeus (18th century) gave the name to the raspberry itself.

Despite people’s early acquaintance with raspberries, data on its cultivation date back to a later time. Thus, raspberries with red and white fruits began to be cultivated in Germany and England from the 16th century, in Russia - from the 17th century, in America - from the end of the 18th century. More accurate information about raspberry varieties dates back to the 19th century.

The entire variety of cultivated raspberry varieties comes from the following three species: red raspberry, which includes two clearly distinguishable subspecies - European red raspberry and American bristlecone; black or blackberry raspberry and purple raspberry, which is an interspecific hybrid from a spontaneous cross between black blackberry and American bristlecone raspberry.

Red raspberries in the photo

European red raspberries are a perennial shrub native to Europe and Asia. It has erect or slightly drooping spiky shoots. Annual shoots are green, biennial shoots are gray-brown. The fruit is red or yellow, oblong or hemispherical. Propagated by root suckers. The ancestor of a large group of varieties (News Kuzmina, Usanka, etc.).

American bristle raspberry is a perennial shrub with erect shoots. Both annual and biennial shoots are strongly spiny and glandular. Annual shoots are greenish-purple, biennial shoots are reddish-brown. The fruits are red, some varieties are yellow. Propagated by root suckers. Distributed mainly in North America.

Varieties of this raspberry:

Marlboro berry in the photo
Marlborough in the photo

Marlborough,

Raspberry “Latam” in the photo
Latham in the photo

Latham,

Raspberry Newburg in the photo
Newburgh in the photo

Newburgh(News) and others – they are also grown in Russia.

Black blackberry raspberry in the photo
Blackberry raspberry in the photo

Black blackberry raspberries have arched, thorny shoots. Annual shoots are green with a strong bluish or purple bloom, biennial shoots are dark brown. The fruit is easily separated from the receptacle. It reproduces by rooting the tips of the shoots. Distributed in North America.

Purple raspberries in the photo
Purple raspberry berry photo

Purple raspberries are a hybrid of red bristlecone and black raspberries. It has the same growth habit as black raspberries and reproduces in the same way. Distributed in America.

Common raspberry in the photo
Common raspberry in the photo

Common or wild raspberry (R.idaeus), is a perennial deciduous subshrub 1 - 2 m high. When describing raspberry bushes, it is worth noting that, unlike other berry crops, this plant has biennial branches, and they bear fruit only once, and the rhizome (underground stem) is perennial. The leaves are trifoliate or pinnately compound. The flowers are white, bisexual, collected in a racemose inflorescence. Depending on the region, it blooms in May - June, the fruits ripen from late June to September. The fruit is a composite drupe of red, yellow and even black colors.

Raspberry is a typical subshrub with perennial underground part, consisting of a rhizome and lateral adventitious roots extending from it, and an aerial part, represented by annual shoots and biennial stems.

Raspberries are shrubs with a two-year development cycle of the above-ground part. In the 1st year, shoots grow in depth and thickness. Their height reaches 2 – 2.5 m. Axillary buds are placed on them. The next year, the stems do not thicken or grow; fruit branches develop from the buds, bearing a harvest. After fruiting, the stems dry out.

One of the features of raspberries is that the bulk of its roots lie in the upper layers of the soil at a depth of 30–40 cm, so raspberries are in great need of moisture and nutrients. However, on fertile light soils, roots can penetrate to a depth of 90 cm. On heavy, infertile soils, especially with a dense underlying layer, the bulk of vital roots are located in the surface layer - at a depth of 15 - 25 cm. A well-developed root system contributes to the annual formation of a powerful above-ground part, causing high plant productivity. With age, as root suckers separate and the main root(s) age, the root system of the bush weakens.

Young plants obtained from propagation by lignified and green shoots and root cuttings do not have a tap root: their root system is represented by a root lobe and adventitious roots growing in different sides. The length of the latter depends on the type of soil, its mechanical composition and fertility.

An important biological feature of raspberries is the elongated growth of shoots. Their ripening begins at the end of the growing season. Many varieties do not have time to shed their green leaves in a timely manner and go into the winter with them. Raspberry leaves are imparipinnate, with five or three leaflets. By the end of the season, up to 40–45 leaves are formed on replacement shoots. They are most developed in the middle third of the shoot. If there is insufficient light in the lower part, the leaves are short-lived and fall off in mid-summer.

In the axils of the leaves, two serial buds are usually formed - the main and additional ones. The additional bud is located under the main one and is often hidden by the leaf petiole. In addition to them, lateral bud buds are formed under the covering scales of the main bud. When the main and additional buds freeze, they can produce weak fruit branches.

In accordance with the growth of the leaves, the largest and most developed buds are located in the middle part of the shoot, the weaker ones are at its base. With dense plantings and poor lighting, this disadvantage is aggravated.

Differentiation of flower primordia in raspberries begins in late July - early August from the upper zone of the middle part of the shoot. In autumn, the upper buds of the shoot undergo more intensive differentiation of flower primordia, go into winter with more developed flower primordia and produce the earliest berries.

Some raspberry varieties, in the year of replacement shoot development, bloom in the fall with the upper buds, which begin to bear fruit. In the middle zone, late berries usually do not ripen and go into winter green, the tops of the shoots freeze. Raspberry flowers are bisexual, so even single-varietal plantings produce good harvest. But cross-pollination of flowers of different varieties gives best results by quantity and quality of berries.

Annual shoots (replacement shoots and root shoots) grow in thickness and length in the first year of life, reaching 1.5 - 2 m or more. Their growth during the summer is uneven. At first, young shoots grow slowly, with the onset of warmth (in June) their growth rate increases greatly, and by the end of the growing season, growth stops completely. If at first the shoot grows in all parts and forms 16–17 internodes before the harvest ripens, then it grows at the top, forming new, shorter internodes. In total, up to 40 internodes grow on the shoot, depending on soil-climatic and varietal characteristics.

Thickening of shoots usually ends with the cessation of their growth in length. Simultaneously with the growth of the shoot, leaves are formed on each node. Their growth continues for about a month. The development of leaves on the shoot is also uneven: in the middle part of the shoot the leaves are larger than in the lower and upper parts. With a high growth rate of shoots in late May - June, the lower leaves soon find themselves in shading conditions, turn yellow early and fall off. In the fall, only certain varieties shed their leaves; in most varieties, the leaves fall only after the first frost. In the axils of the leaves, 2–3 buds are formed - the main one and additional (spare) buds. Some varieties produce only one bud. Buds usually germinate only next year. The exception is remontant varieties, the buds of which germinate in the fall, forming inflorescences and fruits, which usually ripen only in favorable conditions of the Central Black Earth region of Russia.

By autumn, the shoots finish growing and become woody (ripen). Lignification begins from the bottom of the shoot and gradually goes up. Good ripening of shoots is a necessary condition to prepare plants for overwintering. The ripening time of shoots depends on the variety, weather conditions and agricultural technology. Humid and rainy summers delay the growth and ripening of shoots. Nitrogen fertilizers applied at a later date have the same effect, and strong, protracted growth of shoots is observed. They do not have time to ripen and freeze slightly.

In many raspberry varieties, even under favorable conditions, the tops of the shoots do not ripen and, as a rule, freeze slightly in winter. During the growing season, annual raspberry shoots are green in color, and by autumn, in most varieties, they turn various shades of red.

In the second year, the overwintered (already two-year-old) stems do not grow either in height or thickness, and the growing season resumes with the awakening of axillary buds, from which lateral fruit branches with leaves develop, ending in an inflorescence. Inflorescences bearing 1–3 flowers also develop from the axillary buds of fruit branches.

The strength of development of fruit branches varies, which is primarily due to the development of the buds from which they were formed and their location on the shoot. The uppermost buds produce short fruiting branches with a small number of flowers, and long branches also with a small number of flowers grow from the lower buds. The most productive are the fruit branches located in the middle part of the shoot. They have moderate growth, have the largest number of inflorescences and flowers, and the largest fruits ripen on them. The main harvest is collected from them.

Flowering (and fruit ripening) in raspberries is not simultaneous: first, the upper inflorescences on the fruit branch bloom, and in them - the uppermost buds, then the lower fruit branches - sequentially along the shoot.

The flowering and fruiting period is extended; for different varieties in different years it lasts 20–45 days. Flowering usually begins in mid-June, after the return spring frosts, so raspberry flowers are not damaged by low temperatures.

Raspberry flowers are bisexual, so all varieties are self-fertile, however, with cross-pollination, the number of normally developed berries and the percentage of their setting increases significantly.

As you can see in the photo, the flowers of the raspberry plant are small, white, five-petaled, with a large number of pistils and stamens:

The fruit is a complex drupe in the photo
Drupes in the photo

The fruit is a complex drupe consisting of large quantity small drupes that are interconnected and attached to an overgrown soft white stalk. Inside each drupe is a seed. In practice, the raspberry fruit is usually called a berry. The size of these parts of the raspberry plant, their color, taste, and ripening time are varietal characteristics.

The leaves are imparipinnate, with five or three leaflets, on long petioles. The shoots and stems of most raspberry varieties are partially or completely covered with thorns of varying lengths, hardness and thickness.

After the berries ripen, the two-year-old stems, along with the fruit branches, dry out and die; they must be cut out and burned. The bush is renewed due to annual shoots grown over the summer.

Raspberries are photophilous. It reacts sensitively to a lack of light: the internodes of its shoots stretch out, the berries ripen later, and the ripening of stem tissues worsens, which reduces the winter hardiness of the crop. When thickening in a row, weak buds form on the lower part of the shoots, which practically do not produce a harvest. Under such conditions, replacement shoots are more susceptible to fungal diseases. With shallow roots, raspberries require moisture, but suffer from excessive waterlogging of the soil. It experiences the greatest need for soil and air moisture during the period of ripening of berries and intensive growth of shoots.

One of the important conditions for growing raspberries is good lighting. With a lack of light, young shoots become very elongated, shading the fruit-bearing ones, their growth period is extended, and they do not have time to prepare for winter. Lateral fruit branches on fruiting shoots also delay the growth and beginning of ripening of berries, while the quality of the berries decreases. In shady conditions, the berries of the plant are more susceptible to diseases and damaged by pests.

Not only for good growth, but also for fruiting, raspberries require a sufficient supply of moisture in the soil. Plants have the greatest need for water during periods of shoot growth and the beginning of berry ripening. Raspberry does not tolerate excessive waterlogging of the soil and close groundwater, since its roots cannot withstand even short-term flooding. For raspberries, the humidity of not only the soil, but also the air is important. In dry areas, raspberries grow and bear fruit much worse than in places with a humid climate.

Raspberry is not a winter-hardy plant, although its wild species extend quite far to the north. More or less freezing of shoots is observed not only in severe, but also in relatively favorable winters. The winter hardiness of raspberry varieties is influenced by both the ability to complete growth processes and hardening of shoot tissues in a timely manner, as well as the duration of the dormant period, the ability to maintain or re-acquire hardening after a thaw.

One of the features of growing raspberries is that this plant is not highly winter-hardy, since the shoots do not have a dense protective layer of bark and in severe frosts they often freeze to the level of the snow cover. Most raspberry varieties do not tolerate frosts below 30 °C, and only certain varieties can withstand winters with frosts of 35 °C. In some areas of our country, raspberry shoots die in winter not only from low temperatures, but also from winter drying out. Shoots dry out during strong winter winds during warming, when thawed wood gives up more water than is necessary for the life of the shoot tissues, and moisture from the roots does not yet enter the shoots.

High resistance of raspberries to negative temperatures is observed in November - December, when the buds and stem tissues can withstand frost up to 30 or 35 ° C. Thaws, which are often observed in the middle zone in January and February, sharply reduce its frost resistance. After a thaw, raspberry buds and bark are damaged at temperatures of minus 25 or 30 °C.

When growing raspberries on a plot, due to strong winds during thaws, shoots may die when they thaw and the soil remains frozen. At this time, the roots do not supply moisture to the aboveground part and its evaporation occurs from the stems through the weak integumentary tissue. At the same time, the wood of the shoots does not turn brown, as happens when it freezes. Such stems open buds at the beginning of the growing season, but later, together with the emerging leaves, dry out to the point of damage. Such drying out may occur depending on the degree of tissue damage before the berry ripening phase, when the stems dry out along with the fruit branches and ripening fruits.

Closed depressions, lowlands, poorly planned areas with depressions, where long time Melt and rainwater stagnate, and cold air masses are retained. Snow is blown away from open slope tops in winter, causing young shoots to freeze, and in summer, plants in such areas suffer from lack of moisture.

The main method of propagation of raspberries is vegetative propagation by root suckers, which are formed annually near the bush and can serve as planting material.

For propagation of raspberries in the garden planting material It is better to purchase it at an experimental station or at a specialized farm. This is very important, since raspberries are susceptible to various viral diseases that sharply reduce plant productivity. Viral and other dangerous diseases and pests are transmitted through planting material. The number of offspring for vegetative propagation of raspberries, which arise on raspberry roots from adventitious buds, depends on the variety, age of the plantings and agricultural technology. The largest number of offspring are formed on plants up to 4–5 years of age. First of all, they appear in places where root lobes accumulate, where there are favorable conditions for the development of small suction roots. Enhanced germination of buds is facilitated by the superficial location of the roots. Buds are formed on roots with a diameter of more than 1 mm. There can be 2 thousand or more of them on one plant. Of this number, only about 5% sprout into shoots. Thus, about 50 offspring are formed per 1 m.

In the conditions of amateur gardening, a compacted planting pattern of 90 - 100x30 - 50 cm is most acceptable. However, it must be borne in mind that raspberry roots can extend to the side for a considerable distance, therefore, a distance of at least 3 m should be left between varietal strips and varieties should be planted nearby. sharply different in the approbation characteristics of shoots.

Following the agricultural techniques for growing raspberries, in the fall before planting, the root shoots are cut off, leaving a length (from the root) of 30–40 cm, separated from the mother plant and dug up. For planting, take well-developed annual shoots at least 1 cm thick and having 1 – 2 large buds at the base with a well-developed root lobe.

Raspberry varieties that produce a small number of root suckers are propagated by root cuttings. In the fall, when plant growth ends, roots are dug up at a distance of at least 30–40 cm from the mother plant and cut into pieces 10–20 cm long and the thickness of a pencil. The cuttings are stored until spring in the basement in damp sand. In the spring they are planted in a schoolhouse or greenhouse, where the soil should be fertile, well prepared, and free from weeds.

In the school, grooves are cut 5–10 cm deep, the cuttings are laid out in them in a continuous chain, sprinkled with soil, watered abundantly and mulched. The distance between the grooves is 70 cm. In greenhouses, root cuttings are laid out in grooves made with a marker board at a distance of 10 cm from one another.

During the summer, seedlings growing from root cuttings are cared for. It consists of loosening the soil, killing weeds, watering, and controlling pests and diseases. You can plant cuttings in the fall; in this case, there is no need to worry about storing them, and the yield of seedlings at different but timely planting dates is almost the same.

Propagation of raspberries by green cuttings (with video)

Propagation of raspberries by green cuttings, which are cut from young root shoots formed in early summer, gives a good effect.

As the root shoots reach 2–3 cm in height and form 2–3 leaves, they are cut off at the very surface of the soil or with the colorless part of the stem, treated with growth substances to increase rooting and rooted in greenhouses or hotbeds under artificial fog. The substrate is prepared from peat, turf-humus soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2 or a mixture of peat and sand (1:1). The rooting period is 3 – 4 weeks. Rooted cuttings are transplanted for growing into a schoolhouse or greenhouse, where they develop into standard shoots, and they are dug up in the fall.

IN optimal conditions the survival rate of green cuttings during raspberry propagation is 60–90%, and the yield of standard seedlings is up to 80%. The advantages of this method include: the ability to quickly reproduce a small number of elite plants, eliminating their re-infection with diseases and damage by pests.

Watch the video “Propagation of raspberries by cuttings” to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Raspberry propagation using green root suckers

Particularly valuable varieties are propagated by green root suckers. As the root shoots emerge from the soil, they are dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted to a separate ridge for growing or immediately to a permanent place. After planting, the plants are shaded and systematically watered. By autumn, well-developed standard annual shoots grow from them.

There is another way to propagate raspberries using root suckers. To obtain full-fledged seedlings from the best mother plants early spring When the soil is covered with mulch, the required number of queen cells (at least 3 years old) of the raspberries desired for propagation within a radius of 1 m are not covered, as a result of which quite a lot of shoots appear and grow. As soon as they reach 15 - 20 cm, cover the soil with mulch so that the remaining sprouts grow above the mulch, and the root mother plant is removed. Then they make a breakthrough of the sprouts so that they grow no closer than 10 cm from each other.

Deprived of a mother plant, the sprouts left for cultivation will begin to actively develop their own roots and by the fall they will transform into seedlings, which are cut at a height of 40–50 cm and dug up for replanting. They are dug up when the seedlings have already matured, that is, their growth has stopped, approximately in the second half of September - early October. The moment of maturation (cessation of seedling growth) can be determined visually by observing the intensity of withering of the leaves of the stem cut from the root.

Sometimes raspberries are propagated by seeds, and the best seedlings come from seeds from fully ripe and even slightly overripe berries. Having squeezed the juice out of them through cheesecloth, the seeds are immediately sown lightly in boxes with well-moistened, light, nutritious soil, sprinkled with earth or sand in a layer 2–3 times thicker than the size of the seeds. They take a long time to germinate. Some of them sprout in the spring of next year, some - only the next summer or even after 2 - 3 years.

Boxes with crops are stored in cold greenhouses, in the garden (not in the sun) or in a cool basement. It is very important that the soil does not dry out, but heavy rain can easily damage the seedlings.

When the seedlings develop 3-4 leaves, they are planted in cold greenhouses, open ground, or even better in peat-humus, paper or ordinary pots, then the roots will not be damaged during transplantation. The place for picking should be protected from the winds and well fertilized: per 1 m2 add 6 kg of humus, 40 - 50 g of superphosphate, 30 - 45 g of ammonium sulfate, 60 - 90 g of ash or instead 30 g of potassium salt. Seedlings dive in cloudy weather - throughout the day, and in hot weather - in evening hours. At first, the planted seedlings are shaded from the sun with branches or matting and watered in the evenings.

If the seeds could not be sown immediately after picking the berries, they are mixed with sand, poured into cloth bags, sewn up, soaked and laid out on the bottom of a box covered with wet sand, separating bag from bag; then they are covered with wet sand on top. The box is placed in a shallow hole, covered with a 6-10 cm layer of soil and shaded so that the seeds do not dry out. They are stored this way until sowing next year.

When choosing a place to grow raspberries and successfully care for shrubs in gardens, it is necessary to take into account its ability to form numerous shoots, the need for good nutrition, lighting and protection from low temperatures and prevailing winds. It is best to allocate areas for raspberries that are protected by trees, buildings or fences, which not only protects from the wind, but also creates conditions for snow accumulation.

Raspberries should not be planted in low areas and depressions. Excessively moist areas must be dried. The groundwater level should not exceed 1.5 m from the soil surface.

It is unacceptable to plant raspberries between the rows of fruit trees. This worsens the water and nutritional regimes and makes it difficult to care for trees and raspberries. In addition, in this case it is impossible to use a system of protective measures to combat pests and diseases, since the set of protective measures and the timing of their use are different for these crops.

It is better to place raspberries in a separate strip or along a fence at the borders of the site.

Considering that raspberries grow and bear fruit in one place for 8–10 years and greatly deplete the soil, soil preparation for planting raspberries is carried out in advance. Raspberries are very responsive to the application of organic fertilizers, the best of which is rotted manure. If there is a deficiency, various composts are used. Wood ash is used as potassium fertilizer. It is valuable because, unlike potassium chloride, it does not contain chlorine, which has a depressing effect on raspberry roots.

The best soil for raspberries in terms of mechanical composition is well-drained medium loam. Sandy soils can be suitable if well amended with organic fertilizers and plenty of watering. Clay soils are also acceptable if they do not flood. Raspberries do not tolerate soil salinity. The reaction of the soil solution should be within the pH range of 5.8 - 6.7.

The soil is prepared for spring planting in the fall, and for autumn planting - 1 - 1.5 months in advance. The soil is dug up, removing the rhizomes of perennial weeds, organic and mineral fertilizers are scattered and dug up again to cover them.

If raspberries are planted in the same area where they grew before, then the soil must be prepared for at least 4 years. In this case, immediately after harvesting, the old bushes are dug up, burned and the soil is prepared in the above manner. In subsequent years, the site is occupied by different crops.

In the first year, it is advisable to sow honey plants, which during the flowering period should be crushed and embedded in the soil. In the next two years, vegetable crops can be planted here - beets, carrots, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, etc. In the year of planting, the plot is also occupied by vegetables (onions, radishes, lettuce, dill for greens), which are harvested early. After harvesting the vegetables, the soil is prepared for planting raspberries.

To create the above-ground part of the bush, numerous offspring and a large harvest, raspberry plants consume a lot of nutrients and quickly deplete the soil, so they are very responsive to fertilizers. Raspberries are especially demanding of nitrogen and potassium. The doses of fertilizers depend on the fertility of the soil and its filling before planting.

The amount of fertilizer applied when caring for raspberries depends on the supply of nutrients to the soil. On poor soils, before planting, apply per 1 m2: 10 - 15 kg of organic fertilizers, 30 - 45 g of phosphorus and 20 - 30 g of potash (or 400 g of ash). On soils of medium and high cultivation - 10 - 12 kg of organic fertilizers, 20 - 45 g of phosphorus and 15 - 25 g of potassium (or 300 g of ash).

Raspberries grow successfully and bear fruit in soils rich in organic matter at a depth of at least 30–35 cm, of light mechanical composition (loamy, sandy loam), with a groundwater depth of no higher than 1.5 m. It is very important to clear the soil of perennial weeds before planting raspberries , especially rhizomatous ones. Wheat grass in loose soil rich in organic matter grows very quickly in the rows of raspberries and intertwines with their roots. Its awls can even pass through raspberry roots, making it extremely difficult to remove.

The soil is prepared for spring planting in the fall. Since raspberries will grow in one place for a long time, the soil should be filled with organic fertilizers. For digging, add at least 10 kg of manure or peat compost, 40 - 50 g of double superphosphate and 40 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2. In addition to continuous soil preparation, you can make trenches, fill them with organic and mineral fertilizers and mix them with the top fertile layer of soil. The trench width should be 60 - 80 cm, depth - 40 cm. The acidic soil is limed by adding 300 - 600 g of lime per 1 m2 for digging. Visually acidic soil can be identified by the growth of horsetail and small sorrel.

It is better to place raspberries in one row along the edge of the plot with a distance between plants of 0.3 - 0.5 m. When planting in several rows, leave 1.5 - 2 m between them.

Organic fertilizers (manure, peat compost) are applied in autumn and spring at 4–5 kg per 1 m2. In the fall, they are embedded in the soil along with phosphorus (30 g of superphosphate) and potassium (40 g of potassium sulfate) fertilizers to a depth of 12 cm, trying not to damage the root system. When applying manure in spring, it is covered with peat with a layer of 2–3 cm. In this case, the organic material acts as fertilizer and as mulch. At high content In phosphorus soil, phosphorus fertilizers can be applied once every two years. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring more often in the form of urea or ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 m2. Raspberries are sensitive to chlorine, so it is better to use potassium sulfate as a potassium fertilizer. When using potassium chloride, it is given only in the fall.

Technology of planting and caring for raspberries open ground includes the following activities: breaking out the site, digging holes or furrows (trenches), preparing seedlings for planting, laying them out, filling roots, compacting soil, watering, mulching and pruning plants.

When planting raspberry bushes, seedlings are most often placed in one or several rows. The distance between them for single-row placement and strip cultivation is 0.3 - 0.7 m (depending on varietal characteristics). When planting in multiple rows, plants are planted using the strip method.

Raspberries are planted in planting holes with a diameter of 30 m, a depth of 40 cm or in furrows. When planting, the roots are carefully straightened, and the soil around the roots is compacted so that it adheres to the roots. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar of the seedling is at soil level, and the root buds are covered with earth and are not exposed after watering. After planting, abundant watering is carried out, especially in the spring, then the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat or humus in order to retain moisture in the soil during spring planting, and to protect the roots from freezing in the winter during autumn planting. You can also use chopped straw, peat manure composts, rotted sawdust, crushed bark, freshly cut grass as mulching material; lightproof films are also good for this purpose.

In areas with close groundwater and in areas where it often rains, it is better to plant raspberries on ridges or mounds, and on insufficiently moist soils - in furrows. After planting, the stems of the seedlings are cut at a height of 20 cm or close to the ground.

The seedlings are buried to the level of the root collar or 2–3 cm higher. Before planting or immediately after it, the above-ground part is cut off, leaving 30 - 40 cm.

Raspberries are very responsive to soil mulching, especially in the first 2–3 years after planting, when the plant’s root system is developing. When caring for raspberries, mulching regulates the water, heat and air regimes of the soil, preserves its physical and chemical properties, and helps control weeds. Essentially, mulching largely replaces loosening, weeding and even watering the soil. Peat, manure, compost, humus, straw, sawdust, etc. are used as mulching materials. The soil is mulched in the spring with a layer of 6–8 cm after applying mineral fertilizers and loosening. In the fall, when digging the soil, mulching materials are placed in rows. If straw was cut, it is put into composting.

Raspberries react negatively to lack of moisture in the soil. During the period of berry formation, this affects the yield, which can decrease by 2–3 times. This crop needs watering mainly in the first half of summer: before flowering and during the ripening period of the berries. In the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Zone, it is enough to carry out one or two waterings. To wet a soil layer of 40–50 cm, with a single watering the norm is 30–40 liters per 1 m2. After massive ripening of the berries, watering is stopped. In arid areas, to improve overwintering conditions, winter watering of plantings is carried out at the rate of 100 liters of water per 1 m2.

Under the weight of berries, raspberry stems, especially tall varieties, bend strongly between rows, worsening lighting conditions for fruit branches, or break, which leads to a shortage of harvest. Therefore, most of its varieties need support. The most convenient way to support raspberry bushes is a trellis, which consists of support posts located along the edges, on which wire with a diameter of 3 - 4 mm is stretched in two rows. The poles can be made of wooden poles or substandard pipes with a diameter of about 8 cm. They are installed at a distance of 10 - 20 m.

The convenient and most common trellis is the vertical one. It is installed immediately after planting raspberries or at the end of the first year of plant life. The wire is attached at a height of 1.2 - 1.5 m and tied to it one by one or two or three branches together every 10 cm. You can additionally stretch two parallel wires at a height of 60 - 70 cm on both sides of each pole. In this case, the stems left for fruiting are passed between the wires and tied to the top. Instead of wire, you can use reinforced polyethylene and propylene twine.

The stems are tied with twine, cut into pieces of 2 - 3 m, secured to the wire with a knot and the shoots are woven in. When tying, it is necessary to monitor the height of the ends of the stems above the wire, since they should not be higher than 20 cm, otherwise they will break in a strong wind. Vigorous stems are tied at an angle.

Gardeners can make trellises even easier from thin poles.

Raspberry care and video of preparing bushes for winter

Protection of raspberries from freezing is necessary in areas with harsh winters, since the shoots and buds of most varieties are damaged to one degree or another by low negative temperatures. Sometimes, even in relatively mild winters, shoots suffer from physiological desiccation.

When caring for raspberries, to prepare bushes for winter and protect against damage from low temperatures, the shoots are bent to the ground so that in winter they are protected by snow cover. They are bent down in the fall, before the onset of negative temperatures. At positive temperatures, the shoots are flexible, and they can be quite easily tilted along the row, securing them no higher than 30–40 cm from the soil level. You can keep the bent shoots in a horizontal position in different ways. The stems are either bent in one direction and tied at the tops to the base of the bushes, or tilted towards each other and tied. Raspberry bushes with flexible stems are woven into a “braid” at a level of up to 40 cm from the ground. Sometimes a furrow 15–20 cm deep is made near a row of raspberries, the upper third of the stems are placed in it and covered with earth.

The condition for successful overwintering of bent raspberries is snow, which should completely cover the stems. When snow is blown away, the middle, most productive parts of the stems can freeze heavily, since the lowest air temperature is observed at the surface of the snow cover. Frozen stems will yield less than unbent stems. Therefore, the gardener must monitor the condition of the snow cover and, if necessary, hill up the bent stems with snow. In conditions with little snow, bending down shoots is ineffective without covering them with straw, mats or other insulation.

In the 2nd year after planting, raspberries partially bear fruit, and in the 3rd – 4th year they produce a full harvest. In the Non-Black Earth Zone, berries begin to ripen in mid-July, or a month after flowering, and their harvest ends at the end of August. The bulk of the berries are collected in the first 20–25 days, during which time up to 8 pickings are done every 2–3 days, depending on the weather.

The video of caring for raspberries shows how to prepare the bushes for winter:

The best raspberry varieties: photos and descriptions

You should know that when choosing a variety of any berry crop, you should pay attention to the ripening time, size, color and purpose of the berries, yield, winter hardiness, resistance to diseases and pests. However, you can be creative when choosing raspberries. For example, the selected variety suits you in all respects except winter hardiness. In this case, you need to choose a well-lit place, protected from drafts and wind, where snow quickly accumulates.

As for resistance to diseases and pests, if you purchase healthy planting material and care for it according to all the rules of agricultural technology, then raspberries will definitely please you with a good harvest.

To make it easier for you to navigate the rich assortment offered by specialized stores, we will tell you about the main characteristics of the most common raspberry varieties.

Below are photos and descriptions of raspberry varieties that are especially popular among gardeners.

Raspberry Indian summer in the photo
Raspberry berry Indian summer in the photo

Indian summer. The berries are medium in size (2.5–3 g), the first harvest occurs at the end of August. The height of the bush is 1–1.5 m, the number of shoots is 10–15 pcs/m, the variety is distinguished by a large number of thorns.

Raspberry Indian Summer 2 in the photo
Raspberry berry Indian Summer 2 in the photo

Indian Summer 2. The weight of the berries is 3–3.5 g. The berries ripen in the first ten days of August. The height of the bush is 1.2–1.6 m, the number of shoots is 10–15 pcs/m. The variety is distinguished by a large number of thorns. On average, 80–90% of the berries ripen.

Raspberry Balm in the photo
Raspberry Balsam in the photo

Balm

The berries are medium in size (2.5–2.9 g), the bush is low (up to 1.8 m), with an average number of shoots (15–20 pcs/m). The variety is characterized by good winter hardiness.

Raspberry Barnaulskaya in the photo
Barnaul raspberry in the photo

Barnaulskaya. It is distinguished by smaller berries than previous varieties (2–2.5 g). The bush is very tall (more than 2.5 m), shoots up to 25 pcs/m. The variety is characterized by an average number of thorns and high winter hardiness.

Raspberry Beglyanka in the photo
Raspberry berry Beglyanka in the photo

Runaway. The berries are amber-golden, weighing 3–3.5 g. The bush is 1.5–2 m high, 15–20 shoots/m are formed. The variety is winter-hardy and has a small number of thorns on the bush.

Raspberry Brigantine in the photo
Brigantine raspberry in the photo

Brigantine. It is distinguished by large berries (3–3.2 g). The bush is of medium height (1.8–2 m), the number of shoots is 15–20 pcs/m, there are few thorns. The variety is resistant to frost, but in some cases, ring freezing of the stem occurs at the level of the snow cover.

Malina Vera in the photo
Raspberry Vera in the photo

Faith. Medium sized berries (2–2.7 g). Medium-sized bushes (1.5–2 m), with a moderate number of shoots (15–20 pcs/m). They are spiny with drooping tops. Winter hardiness is satisfactory.

Raspberry Award in the photo
Raspberry berry Award in the photo

Reward. High-yielding variety late date maturation. The bushes are tall, erect, the diameter of the stem at the base is up to 20 mm. The shoots of the first year are green, becoming reddish by autumn, with a waxy coating.

As you can see in the photo, this raspberry variety has a weak thorniness, the thorns are mainly located in the lower part:

The berries are large (the weight of one berry is up to 3 g), with good taste. The berries are well attached to the stalk, the shedding is weak. With good care and regular watering, the yield is 100 - 120 kg or more per 1 hectare.

Raspberry Yubileinaya in the photo
Jubilee raspberries in the photo

Anniversary. This is a high-yielding variety, the yield per 1 acre is 100 - 120 kg or more. The bushes are tall and erect. Shoot-forming ability is average. The berries are large, weighing up to 3 g, ripening period is mid-early. When describing this raspberry variety, it is worth noting its resistance to fungal and viral diseases. Winter hardiness is average.

Raspberry Maroseyka in the photo
Maroseyka raspberry in the photo

Maroseyka. New promising variety. The ripening period is mid-early. The bushes are medium-sized, somewhat spreading, 1.2–1.7 m tall, erect, shoots are thick, up to 2 cm at the base, without thorns. Shoot-forming ability is below average. The berries are large, the weight of one berry reaches 6 g, the pulp is tender, sweet in taste, with a pleasant aroma. When ripe, they do not fall off for a long time. In the middle zone it winters well under snow. With good care, it can produce 4–5 kg of berries from 1 bush.

Malina Stolichnaya in the photo
Stolichnaya raspberry in the photo

Stolichnaya. A modern, promising variety, with good care, capable of producing up to 4–5 kg of berries per bush. The ripening period is medium-late. Bushes of average height - 1.5 - 2 m. This variety has a peculiarity: it almost does not form root shoots. There are also few replacement shoots; the shoots are thick and thornless. The berries are large, the weight of one berry is up to 8 g, the pulp is dense, good taste, with a pleasant aroma. When ripe, the berries last 3–4 days. In central Russia it winters well under snow.

Raspberry Scarlet Sail in the photo
Raspberry berry Scarlet Sail in the photo

Scarlet sail. The bush is tall (1.8 - 2.2 m), semi-spreading. Annual shoots are thick, with sloping tops, without thorns, bright red by autumn, with a medium waxy coating. The berries are medium (2 - 2.5 g), red, conical in shape, good sweet and sour taste, early date maturation. The variety is winter-hardy.

Raspberry Tall in the photo
Raspberry berry Tall in the photo

High. The bush is tall (2 - 2.3 m). The shoots are straight, thick, spiny, with a slightly drooping top, purple in autumn, with a noticeable waxy coating. The leaves are medium-sized, slightly wrinkled, green. The berries are medium (up to 2.5 g), raspberry, spherical in shape, with firmly attached drupes, well attached to the stalk, good taste, with a weak aroma, late ripening. Winter hardiness is high. Resistance to fungal diseases is average.

Raspberry Kaliningradskaya in the photo
Kaliningrad raspberry berry in the photo

Kaliningradskaya(Prussian). Foreign variety. The bush is tall (above 2.5 m), semi-spreading, with weak shoot-forming ability. The shoots are powerful, pubescent, medium-thorny, with a waxy coating, long, and by autumn the shoots are reddish in color. The berries are large (2.8 - 4 g), red, with large heterogeneous drupes, loosely attached to each other, sweet, good taste, with aroma, medium ripening. Winter hardiness is average. Not resistant not only to viral but also to fungal diseases.

Malina Novokitaevskaya in the photo
Novokitaevskaya raspberry berry in the photo

Novokitaevskaya. A medium-sized bush (1.5 - 2 m), upright, with hanging tips of the shoots. Annual shoots are medium-sized, green, light brown by autumn, with a weak, waxy coating, without pubescence, medium-prickly. The berries are medium size (2.5 - 3 g), dark red or raspberry, conical in shape, good sweet and sour taste. Medium sized drupes, well interconnected. Early ripening variety. Winter hardiness is high. Disease resistance is average.

Raspberry News Kuzmina in the photo
Raspberry berry News Kuzmina in the photo

Kuzmin's news. The bush is of medium thickness (1.5 - 2 m), semi-spreading, with average shoot-forming ability. The shoots are erect at the base and slightly arched towards the apex, green, without pubescence, by autumn light brown, with a waxy coating, medium spiny. The berries are medium size (2 - 3 g), dark red or crimson, beautiful blunt-conical shape, dessert taste, aromatic, early ripening. The variety is winter-hardy. Not resistant to viral and fungal diseases, but relatively hardy to them. It is affected by didimella and damaged by shoot gall midge, but the crop has time to ripen before the stems die, so the losses are less noticeable compared to other varieties.

Malina Pavlovskaya in the photo
Pavlovskaya raspberry berry in the photo

Pavlovskaya. The bush is strong, erect, with an average number of offspring. Annual shoots are straight, strong, green, by autumn with a purple tint, with a waxy coating, prickly. The berries are large (3 - 3.5 g), round in shape, dark crimson in color, with large, interlocking drupes, good taste, average transportability, medium-late ripening. Productivity is high, winter hardiness is average. It is severely affected by fungal diseases (anthricnose and didimella). Recommended for the North-Western region of the Non-Black Earth zone of Russia.

Raspberries are everyone's favorite plant. Its berries are excellent fresh, and they are also used to make preserves, juices, compotes, jams, etc. It is decorative thanks to its beautiful leaves, flowers and spectacular fruits. It is recommended to grow raspberry bushes in row or bush ways.

The best varieties for central Russia:

Raspberry Fragrant in the photo
Fragrant raspberry in the photo

Gusar raspberry in the photo Mikker raspberry in the photo

"Mikker" etc.

How to prune raspberries correctly (with video)

Raspberries are very different in their biological properties from other berry plants. Raspberry branches live only two years and, after bearing fruit, die. Raspberries are formed in the form of individual bushes or a trellis 0.4 -0.5 m wide. After planting in a permanent place, the seedlings are pruned into 3 - 5 buds. Next year, stems 1.2 - 1.5 m tall grow from the left buds. Fruit buds are located in the axils of the leaves. In the spring, the shoots that grew the previous year are slightly shortened, usually the immature top is removed. Shortening promotes the appearance of new fruit buds. In subsequent years, immediately after picking the berries, all fruit-bearing biennial shoots are removed and cut down to the base of the soil.

Thus, the annual replacement of fruit-bearing shoots with new ones occurs. Typically, 10-12 stems or 4-6 shoots per bush are left per 1 m of trellis for fruiting next year (for bush growing). In the conditions of central Russia, at the end of September, young shoots should be bent to the ground, pinned with pegs and then covered with snow.

Watch the video of raspberry pruning, which shows all the nuances of forming a bush:

Raspberries bloom from late May to July, and 30-40 days after flowering the berries ripen. Raspberry leaves and flowers are collected in May-June and dried under a canopy in the open air.

IN folk medicine Raspberry flowers are used internally and externally as an anti-inflammatory and antitoxic agent.

Benefit

1. Raspberry flowers have anti-inflammatory and antitoxic effects.

2. An infusion to which raspberry flowers are added is recommended for hemorrhoids.

3. For stomach disorders (heartburn, pain, feeling of heaviness after eating), raspberry leaves, flowers and branches are indispensable.

4. Inflamed eyes and facial skin are washed with a decoction of raspberry flowers. acne.

5. Raspberry leaves and flowers contain tannins, flavonoids, sugars, organic acids, vitamin C and various mineral salts.

6. An infusion of raspberry leaves and flowers is taken internally and externally as a blood purifier for skin diseases, vitamin deficiencies, rashes, eczema, erysipelas, measles, articular rheumatism (lotions from a decoction of raspberry leaves and flowers are applied to sore spots); for infectious diseases, fever; and externally - for washing the eyes for conjunctivitis and blepharitis.

7. People use raspberry flowers and leaves in the form of an infusion, which they drink for colitis, and gargle with the same infusion for sore throats.

8. An infusion of raspberry flowers is used as an antidote for the bites of poisonous snakes and scorpions, as well as for diseases of the female genital area.

9. You can wash your face with an infusion of dried raspberry flowers to get rid of acne and inflammation on the skin of the face.

Harm

Under no circumstances should you take a decoction of raspberry flowers together with aspirin!

Unfortunately, more detailed information not yet available.

Raspberry is a prickly, highly branched subshrub belonging to the Rosaceae family. This plant has a perennial rhizome with erect shoots. The leaves are arranged alternately and vary in appearance depending on where they are located. For example, the upper ones are trifoliate, having stipules adhered to the petiole. The leaves located at the bottom of the stem are imparipinnate, each leaf consists of 5–7 leaflets.

The flowers are white, located in greenish-gray cups. Raspberry flowers are collected in inflorescences - panicles that emerge from the axils of the leaves. The raspberry fruit is a clustered drupe, usually red, but can also be yellow. In wild raspberries, the drupes quickly disintegrate, which cannot be said about the raspberries that people grow, because these drupes, on the contrary, are very dense and do not disintegrate. Inside the fruit there are many small seeds, hard and round. Raspberry flowering begins in early summer and lasts 1 month. The fruits ripen in mid-to-late summer. Raspberries bear fruit differently each year.

Wild raspberries can be seen in the European part of the CIS, Kazakhstan, the Caucasus, Western Siberia and the Urals. It prefers to grow at the edge of the forest, in clearings, clearings, on the banks of rivers, ravines and in burnt areas.

Growing raspberries

Raspberries are planted in the autumn and only in clean, prepared soil, namely fertilized with organic fertilizers.

When all the fertilizers have been added to the soil, it is necessary to dig up the ground. Plants are planted, keeping a distance between them that will be sufficient for proper and good growth (30 cm). With good watering, you need to cut the plants down to the soil level in the spring.

After planting, you need to mulch the soil with humus or manure (you can use peat or straw). Mulch will prevent weeds from germinating, retain moisture and improve the soil structure itself. After another 1 year, mulching is repeated.

Raspberry care

Spring is the time to tie up raspberries. At this time, you need to tie up the first 2 “floors” of each plant. When tying, do not use metal or wooden supports. Yes, this is not necessary, because the stems, when tied, are in a vertical position and themselves serve as a support for the twine. Polypropylene twine is most suitable for tying.

After the harvest has been harvested, you need to cut off the fruiting stems at a height of half a meter from the soil surface.

In order for the plant to produce a good harvest, it must be watered regularly and correctly. Raspberries are sensitive to lack of moisture, so they should definitely be watered - rarely, but plentifully. It is better to water with sprinklers.

You cannot plant many rows of raspberries on a plot, as this will only have a worse effect on the harvest and lead to weediness in the plot. As bad shoots appear, they are removed. Root suckers also need to be removed. In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers must be added to the soil.

After harvesting, it is imperative to water in the furrows - this is how the water gets directly into the roots of the plant without harming their crowns.

Useful properties of raspberries

Raspberry fruits contain organic acids, sucrose and fructose, tannins, pectins, vitamin C, essential oil and other substances. Fresh raspberries quench thirst and normalize digestion processes. Raspberries are used as a remedy for “sobering up” when intoxicated.

Raspberries have antipyretic, antitoxic and hemostatic effects. Raspberries are very useful for women because they have a positive effect on skin color and tone.

People who work and constantly experience nervous tension should take raspberries, as they contain copper, which is a component of many antidepressants. Raspberries have diaphoretic properties.

Application of raspberries

Raspberries are used for colds, acute respiratory infections, flu, radiculitis, fever and neuralgia, and are an ingredient in the preparation of diaphoretic teas. Raspberries reduce the size of the prostate gland and are part of herbs that help cure impotence and infertility.

Raspberries are used for atherosclerosis, kidney diseases, stomach, intestines, hypertension and cardiac dysfunction. Raspberry juice is used for diabetes mellitus. For diarrhea and bleeding, it is recommended to take a decoction of the leaves of the plant. Raspberries can also be used externally. For example, raspberry decoction can be used to gargle and oral cavity in various inflammatory processes.

Recipes with raspberries

Dried raspberries for colds. Take 2 teaspoons of dried raspberries and pour a glass of boiling water over them. The prepared tea is taken for colds as a diaphoretic. After taking this medicine, you should immediately go to bed. You need to drink 3 glasses of this warm tea in an hour. This tea helps women recover after menstruation, childbirth, and relieves ailments. Raspberry tea calms and tones the body.

Raspberry leaf decoction To prepare it, you need to brew 2 teaspoons of crushed leaves of the plant with a glass of boiling water. Take a decoction of 100 ml 4 times a day. The decoction has not only an astringent, but also an anti-inflammatory effect. It is used for enteritis, gastritis and respiratory diseases.

Raspberry tincture for insect bites. It’s not difficult to prepare a raspberry tincture. Take 100 grams of raspberry flowers and leaves and pour 500 ml of vodka over them. We insist for several hours. Next, the site of the insect bite should be lubricated with the prepared tincture 8–10 times. You need to do the lubrication like this: you smeared the bite area with the tincture, it dried, and you again smeared the area with the tincture, and in this order 10 times.

Raspberry juice the plant is squeezed from the fresh berries. You need to take 50–100 ml of this juice for gastritis, colds or colitis.

Contraindications to the use of raspberries

People with liver diseases can eat raspberries, but in small quantities. Raspberries contain coarse fibers, so they should not be taken by people with stomach ulcers and duodenum. Of course, do not forget about individual intolerance to raspberries. People who are allergic to red berries should not eat red raspberries, but they can use raspberries with yellow or black fruits. Raspberries are prohibited for nephritis and gout.

Common raspberry ( Rúbus idaeus) is a deciduous subshrub and belongs to the class dicotyledonous plants, order Rosaceae, family Rosaceae, genus Rubus.

Common raspberry - description and characteristics

Raspberry is a perennial plant with a very developed and sinuous rhizome, on which many adventitious roots are formed. Aboveground shoots are erect, from 1.5 to 2.5 meters high, in the first year of growing season they are green, with a barely noticeable bluish bloom, herbaceous and covered with thin thorns. By the second year of life, raspberry shoots become woody, acquiring a bright brown color. After the fruiting period they die, but a new shoot-stem grows from the same root bud in the spring.

On the stem of the common raspberry there are complex oval leaves, consisting of 3-7 dark green ovoid leaves, each of which is covered with hairs below and has a whitish tint.

Raspberry flowers are white, with many stamens and pistils, with a subtle honey aroma, collected in miniature racemose inflorescences, which are located on the tops of the shoots or in the axils of the leaves.

Common raspberry fruits

Sweet and very aromatic raspberries are numerous, small-sized drupes, fused into a complex fruit. Interestingly, the color of the fruit can vary from light pink and burgundy to yellow, orange and even almost black.

Where do raspberries grow?

This subshrub is distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Europe and the Americas. In Russia, ordinary raspberries are found in the middle zone and in the south, in the cold climate of Siberia and the Urals, and also grow in the mountainous areas of Kazakhstan, Bashkiria and Kyrgyzstan.

Raspberry is often called a pioneer plant because of its unpretentiousness to soil indicators: it is the very first to appear in the place of burnt-out forest clearings, and feels comfortable both in dry zones and along the edges of swamps.

Wild (forest) raspberries are mentioned in chronicles dating back to the 3rd century BC. This plant became known as a garden crop only in the 16th and 17th centuries.

Types, varieties, classification of raspberries

A huge number of raspberry varieties can be divided into the following groups:

• by berry size (large, medium, small);
• by color (yellow, red, black, orange);
• by ripening period (early ripening, mid-early, mid-ripening, mid-late, late ripening);
• by resistance to cold (winter-hardy, not winter-hardy).

Separately, it is necessary to distinguish standard and remontant raspberries.

Standard raspberry— a feature of the species are thick, powerful, branched, erect shoots, which, after pinching, resemble a small tree, most often not requiring garter.

Remontant raspberry- a type of raspberry that bears fruit in summer and also in autumn.

Below are some varieties of raspberries:

Yellow raspberry varieties

• Yellow sweet tooth

A mid-early, productive raspberry variety produces 3.5 - 4 kg per bush. The elongated berries, weighing 3-6 g, are distinguished by a pale yellow color and a bright aroma; the ripened fruits do not crumble for a long time.

• Golden autumn

The mid-late remontant raspberry variety is distinguished by its golden-yellow fruit color with slight pubescence. Raspberries are sweet, large, have a bright aroma, and are well transported.

• morning dew

A remontant raspberry variety with golden-yellow fruits. The shoots of this variety are tough, about 1.5 meters in height, covered with a large number of thorns. The berries are large, spherical in shape, hard, weighing up to 5 kg. It is grown mainly in home gardens and a little on plantations. Raspberries of the Morning Dew variety are suitable for transportation.

• Yellow giant

Semi-remontant, winter-hardy variety of yellow raspberries, bearing fruit until frost. It has a high yield (up to 6 kg per bush) and unusually large, very sweet berries, weighing up to 8-10 g.

• Orange miracle

The remontant raspberry variety got its name due to the non-standard, golden-orange hue of the fruit. Raspberries are large, weighing 5-6 g; there are specimens weighing up to 10 g. The berries are characterized by sweetness with a slight sourness and a delicate aroma. The variety has excellent productivity, severe frosts and does not tolerate heat well.

Varieties of standard raspberries

• Tarusa

The slender bush is highly decorative and has no thorns at all. The yield of one “raspberry tree” is more than 5 kg. The bright red berry with small seeds weighs up to 10 g. The aroma of raspberries is intense, but the taste is not expressed, so the Tarusa raspberry variety is more suitable for preparations. The variety has a mid-early ripening period; a temperature drop below 25 degrees can be detrimental to young shoots.

• Firebird

A productive variety of standard raspberries with a medium ripening period, it begins to bear fruit at the end of July. The berries are large, red, shiny, weighing from 12 to 15 g. The taste of raspberries is excellent, the berries are sweet, juicy, and do not crumble even when fully ripe. The winter hardiness level of the variety is 23-25 ​​degrees, drought resistance is high.

• Sturdy

A consistently fruit-bearing variety of standard raspberries with medium ripening period. The fruits are red, weighing up to 10 g, very tasty and aromatic, easily separated from the stalk, but do not fall off for a long time. One bush can produce up to 4 kg of berries. The variety does not respond well to snow-white winters and sudden temperature changes.

Black raspberry varieties

• Cumberland

The early-ripening variety of black raspberries has increased winter hardiness and unpretentiousness. The fruits are round, medium-sized, weighing 2-4 g, initially red, becoming glossy black as they ripen. The berry is dense, sweet, with a slight sourness and blackberry flavor. The yield of a raspberry bush is 3-4 kg.

• Bristol

The most popular black raspberry variety of a new promising selection. It is characterized by late ripening and produces extremely stable yields. Round raspberries weighing 3-5 g have a black color with a blue coating, a pleasant sweet taste and aroma. The Bristol variety does not tolerate severe cold and is not resistant to anthracnose, a fungal disease of stems.

• Ember

An early ripening variety of black raspberries. The berries weighing up to 2 g are dense, black, and do not fall off when ripe. The taste is sweet and sour, the berries are perfectly stored without losing their taste and presentation. From one bush you can collect up to 5.5 kg.

Varieties of large-fruited raspberries

• Hercules

A remontant high-yielding variety of raspberries, it stands out for its large fruits weighing 5-8 g. Individual specimens weigh 15 g. The first harvest is harvested in mid-July, the second from the end of August until frost. Under cover it is possible to ripen 2 weeks earlier. The cone-shaped berries have a bright ruby ​​color, a pleasant, sweet and sour taste and excellent presentation.

• Patricia

An early, winter-hardy, productive raspberry variety with velvety, red, conical berries weighing from 4 to 12 g. The yield reaches 8 kg per bush. The variety is characterized by a non-standard shape of fruits prone to deformation. Patricia raspberries have an excellent taste, but do not tolerate transportation and storage well.

• Senator

Mid-season raspberry variety with berries weighing 7-12 grams, in some cases 15 grams. The oblong fruits are burgundy-orange in color, have a glossy shine, velvety pubescence and a rich, sweet and sour taste. The variety is characterized by increased winter hardiness and tolerates frosts down to -35 degrees without damage.

Raspberry varieties for the middle zone

• Unattainable

A consistently high-yielding variety of remontant raspberries with red berries weighing up to 6 g. The elongated fruits have a sweet taste and delicate aroma. With proper care, the yield is 5 kg per bush. The bushes do not freeze even in the most severe frosts.

• Indian summer - 2

A remontant, productive raspberry variety is marked by abundant fruiting, early ripening and excellent quality of berries. The fruits are medium-sized, weighing up to 3g, have a sweet taste with a slight sourness, are well stored and do not fall from the bush.

Raspberry varieties for Siberia

• Diamond

The variety is distinguished by increased winter hardiness, as well as resistance to damping and desiccation. Raspberries are bright scarlet in color, medium-sized, weighing 2.5-3 g, aromatic, sweet and sour. Ripens in early July and does not fall off when overripe.

• Zorenka Altai

A raspberry variety of medium ripening, frost-resistant, large-fruited, high-yielding. The berries, weighing from 3 to 5 g, are red, have a pleasant, sweet and sour taste and excellent transportability.

• Ruby

The mid-late variety is valued for its exceptional resistance to frost and drought, bringing a stable harvest in Altai Territory. Red raspberries, berries with a light bluish bloom, weighing up to 5.5 g, have excellent taste and quality characteristics.

How to grow raspberries

While wild raspberries can grow even on unfavorable soils, cultivated raspberry varieties require care and proper planting. When choosing a place for a plant, give preference to an open sunny area, or plant it in light partial shade. The soil must be enriched with humus and have good air and moisture permeability. It is advisable to plant in mid-autumn, deepening the raspberry seedlings 4-5 cm strictly vertically. For proper development of bushes and excellent harvest ordinary raspberries They are fed with minerals, and the rows are mulched with organic fertilizer. Before wintering, two-year-old bushes are removed at the root, freeing the area from them.

Useful properties of raspberries. What diseases does raspberry treat?

Raspberries are tasty, aromatic and healthy berry, which helps treat a large number of diseases. This is why raspberry bushes can be found in many garden plots these days. According to statistics, this berry is considered the third most common in our country, behind only strawberries and currants. Common raspberry fruits are eaten fresh, fragrant preserves, jams and compotes are made from them, marmalade and marshmallows are prepared, frozen, dried, and used in the production of wine and liqueurs. Raspberry flowers are used in cosmetology to make lotions and creams.

The benefits of raspberries are indeed very significant. As raspberries ripen, they acquire a unique composition. The fruits of this shrub contain a lot of vitamins, acids and beneficial microelements. For example, any raspberry variety is endowed with:

• healthy sugars (glucose, sucrose and fructose);
• malic, citric and salicylic acids;
• vitamins A, C and B;
• minerals and salts;
• microelements (iron, zinc, copper, calcium);
• provitamin A.

It is worth noting that there is much more iron and vitamin C in raspberries than in other fruits and berries. That is why it is actively used to treat a large number of diseases. Raspberries are widely used in medicine as a diaphoretic and antipyretic for various colds. Raspberries are a unique berry because they can be safely taken for illnesses along with medications. In this case, the fruits will only contribute to a speedy recovery, and will also provide the body with vitamins and beneficial microelements. This “tasty” medicine is enjoyed not only by adults, but also by children, who know very well about the benefits of raspberries.

Raspberry jam, tea with dried raspberries or eating fresh berries can speed up the treatment of diseases such as:

• colds, flu;
• gastritis;
• severe cough with sore throat;
• atherosclerosis;
• scurvy;
• anemia.

• Pliny was involved in raspberry cultivation in Ancient Rome, having accidentally eaten this berry on the island of Crete.
• A handful of raspberries is an excellent antidepressant and will easily relieve depression: the copper in its composition will quickly bring your nervous system in order.
• Red raspberries are healthier than yellow ones. But most useful look is black raspberry.

Raspberry is a semi-shrub deciduous plant that produces everyone's favorite berries.
The rhizome of the plant is perennial, and above-ground shoots develop for two years and reach a height of up to 2.5 m. The raspberry root system is very powerful, branched with a large number of adventitious roots. The stems grow straight and are herbaceous in the first year. The color of annual shoots is green with a bluish coating and small thorns. By the second year, raspberry shoots become woody and brown.
Raspberry leaves are oval-shaped, dark green above, and whitish and slightly pubescent below. Raspberries bloom with white flowers collected in racemose inflorescences. Flowering begins in June and lasts until July-August, and you can see what raspberries look like in photos and videos on our website.

Homeland: Central part of Europe.

Flowering: from June to July-August.

Height: 1.5 m - 2.5 m.

Light: sunny areas, partial shade.

Temperature: average frost resistance, -30°C critical temperature.

Humidity: moderate.

Feeding: when planting, and as needed.

Transplantation: spring or autumn.

Reproduction: suckers, cuttings, dividing the bush.

Raspberries grow in forests and along the banks of reservoirs. Raspberries are often grown in home gardens. Raspberries are grown on an industrial scale in many countries, but Russia leads the list.
Raspberries begin to bear fruit in the second year. The fruits are red, yellow and even black. In Russian national culture, raspberries are considered a symbol of a good life.

Types and applications

Raspberries are consumed both fresh and frozen.

• Jam, juices, jelly, etc. are made from it. Wine, liqueur and other settings are made from raspberries.

Raspberries are also used as a medicine.

• It is dried and used as a diaphoretic, and syrup from the berries is added to mixtures to improve the taste.
• Raspberry leaves and fruits help cope with colds and the flu.
• Raspberries are an excellent honey plant - from 1 hectare bees collect up to 70 kg of honey, which contains glucose, levulose and is very pleasant to the taste.

The genus includes 250 species of raspberries, most of which grow in the Northern Hemisphere. More than others, there are 30 known species. You will learn everything about elite raspberry varieties from the video.

Here are a few of them:

• Raspberry fragrant

Found naturally in North America.

• This deciduous shrub reaches a height of 3 m, cultivated - 1.5 m.
• The shrub's shoots are shiny brown, and the bark is slightly peeling.
• There are no thorns on young shoots.
• The leaves are large, light green in color and similar to maple leaves.
• Fragrant raspberries bloom with large pink-purple or white flowers that smell pleasant.
• Flowering begins in June and lasts all summer.
• The fruits of fragrant raspberries are light red in color and have a sour taste.
• Look at the photo to see what fragrant raspberries look like, and you will find a more detailed description in the video on the Internet.

• Beautiful raspberries

a spreading shrub, its height is up to 3 m.

• IN wildlife more common in North America.
• The shoots of the beautiful raspberry are dark gray in color, and the young ones are slightly pubescent.
• The leaves are ovoid, similar to grape leaves.
• This type of raspberry blooms with white, large single flowers.
• Flowering lasts 20 days and is abundant.
• The fruits are hemispherical in shape, purple in color, but taste rather dry.
• This type of raspberry is used for parterre plantings.

A photo of this type of raspberry is below, and you can find a video on the Internet.

• Raspberry hawthorn leaf

a subshrub that is very different from the well-known raspberry, and it is used as a decorative one.

• The fruits of this raspberry are very juicy, but sour, and with a large number of seeds.
• In our country, such raspberries grow in botanical gardens.
• The height of the bush is from 1 m to 2 m.
• Flowering from June to August.
• The shoots are purple or brownish-red.
• The leaves are dark green and hairy, turning yellow, orange and dark red in the fall.
• This raspberry bears fruit with dark red berries that taste sweet and sour.
• The berries are juicy and ripen in August.
• Caring for hawthorn-leaf raspberries involves cutting off old shoots.
• The species is very winter-hardy.

Raspberry seedlings of this species are planted either as single bushes or as a hedge.

Look at the photos and videos on specialized channels to see what these raspberries look like.

• Common raspberry

branched subshrub with straight stems, the height of which is 180 cm.

• Young shoots are green and do not bear fruit in the first year.
• Two-year-old shoots become slightly lignified and are already bearing fruit.
• Common raspberry blooms with inconspicuous, greenish-white flowers in June-July.
• The berries are raspberry-red in color and ripen in July-August.
• This type of raspberry is widely cultivated.

In the wild, such raspberries can be found on the territory former USSR. You will find more information about common raspberries in the article and video on our website.

The most common varieties of common raspberries are:
“Scarlet Sail” is an early variety that has powerful bushes up to 2.2 m in height. The variety is quite frost-resistant and not susceptible to fungal diseases.

“Beglyanka” is also an early variety, medium in height - up to 2 m. The variety is very frost-resistant. Raspberries of the Beglyanka variety bear fruit with medium-sized berries that have an apricot color and excellent taste.

“Meteor” is a medium-height variety that belongs to the early variety. The fruits appear at the end of June. The berries of this raspberry variety are medium in size, ruby ​​in color and have a rounded conical shape.

"Cumberland" - the berries of this raspberry variety are black in color. The variety is frost-resistant and very decorative. The bushes are from 1.5 to 2 m in height, and are strewn with thorns. The berries are sweet, round in shape and easily transportable. Photo of the Cumberland variety below:

Black Raspberry - Cumberland

“Arabesque” is a variety with an average ripening period, a compact bush - up to 2 m. Berries burgundy color. It is considered one of the most unpretentious varieties.

"Arbat" is a medium-growing, mid-ripening variety. Frost resistance is average. For the winter, care in the form of shelter is required.

“Yellow Giant” is a remontant raspberry, from a large-fruited variety of common raspberry. The bush is medium - up to 1.5 m. It bears fruit with large yellow berries.

"Latham" - this variety was bred in the USA. The bush is medium - up to 1.8 m. The shoots are slightly thin. The variety is frost-resistant and high-yielding. Fruits with round, red berries. The taste is average.

“Brigantina” is a late variety, growing as a compact bush - up to 2 m. Frost resistance is average, but the variety is high-yielding. The fruits are large in size, dark crimson in color, round-conical in shape. The taste of the berries is excellent. It tolerates a lack of moisture well, but is often affected by raspberry mites.

• Remontant raspberry -

rather not a species, but a group of raspberry varieties that are capable of producing crops from one-year-old shoots.

The term “repair” itself has a slightly different definition. Translated from English, “remontant” means continuously bearing fruit.

Remontant raspberries have been known for more than 200 years. In our country, remontant raspberries have not been selected for a long time. But now quite a few varieties are already known, the main ones of which are:

Remontant raspberry variety "Indian Summer" -

medium-sized, shoot formation rate is average. The berries are medium-sized, round-conical in shape. The taste of the fruit is high.

Remontant raspberry variety “Apricot” -

has amber-colored fruits with pink “cheeks” that taste qualities resemble an apricot. The berries begin to ripen in August and bear fruit before the onset of frost. The remontant raspberry bush "Apricot" is medium, and the thorns are located at the bottom of the shoots, which simplifies care.

Remontant raspberry variety "Atlant" -

a special variety that has high disease resistance. The shoots grow quickly, reaching a height of up to 2 m. Atlant remontant raspberry is considered the most drought-resistant. "Atlant" is a high-yielding variety. The berries begin to ripen in August, their size is large and their shape is elongated and conical.

The remontant raspberry variety “Hercules” is considered the largest-fruited variety. The yield is high, and the plant itself is very unpretentious.

A detailed description of remontant raspberries is shown in the video:

Care

Raspberries are planted in autumn or spring. Raspberry seedlings with dense rhizomes and shoots are selected for planting.

• Raspberry seedlings are dipped in mash, placed in a hole, and watered. Raspberry seedlings are buried 3-7 cm.
• If raspberries are planted in the fall, the bushes will need to be hilled up and unplanted in the spring.

Planting raspberries is done in two ways - strip and separate bush.

• If the raspberries are planted as a separate bush, it will need to be shaped.
• On the bush, in the third year, you need to leave 10 strong shoots, remove all the rest.

Strip placement consists of removing all shoots outside, and only weak shoots are removed in the strip.

Growing raspberries using the strip method gives higher yields.

In garden plots, such care for raspberries as garter is recommended. The supports greatly facilitate both the growing process and the picking of berries.

• Raspberries can grow up to 20 years in one place, but it is better to replant them after 10 years.
• Raspberries are not very frost-resistant; shoots can freeze; temperatures of -30°C are considered detrimental to the plant.
• Raspberries do not like dry weather, and excess moisture can be harmful. Loose, nutritious and moderately moist soils are suitable for raspberries.

Raspberry variety "Brigantine"

Caring for raspberries, such as fertilizing, is a necessary condition.

• The first time, fertilizers are applied to the holes prepared for raspberry seedlings, and then for 2-3 years of its growth.
• The composition and dosage of fertilizers is determined according to need.

For prevention against pests and diseases, raspberries can be treated with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

• After harvesting, it is necessary to prune young and weak shoots.

In the fall, before frost, raspberry shoots need to be tied and bent so that they are no higher than 30-40 cm above the soil. This will protect them from freezing.

Raspberries require the correct water balance.

• Maximum moisture consumption occurs at the time of fruiting.
• Raspberries need to be watered in spring, summer, and autumn - if the variety is late.
• An abundance of moisture will stimulate the growth of shoots, but they will not ripen well.

The process of caring for raspberries is described in detail in the video:

Reproduction

Raspberries can be propagated in several ways:

• By division

You need to divide the bush in such a way that there are 10 shoots left on each part.

• The stumps remaining from the old bush are removed.
• The roots on new bushes are pruned and the stem is cut to 40 cm.
• The bush is divided either in the spring, before the buds open, or in the fall.
• Reproduction by root suckers occurs in the fall.
• Raspberry seedlings must have developed roots.

The above-ground part is cut to 30 cm, and the roots are trimmed.

• Propagation by root cuttings

To do this, you should dig up the raspberry roots and divide them into cuttings of 10-15 cm.

The cuttings are laid out in grooves, the depth of which is 10-12 cm, and covered with a nutrient substrate.

Such plantings must be watered regularly.

1. Raspberry propagation by root suckers occurs in early June.

It is necessary to dig up raspberry seedlings with a lump of earth, plant them and water them.

You will learn more about raspberry propagation from the video: