6211 0 0

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: methods you might not know

Greetings, dear readers. This time I will talk about how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor. This information will certainly be useful to owners of old country houses or apartments in old houses where plank floors are still laid.

The topic is of considerable interest, since it is in rooms with wooden floors that renovations are most often planned in order to update the floor covering. In addition, it is in such rooms that replacing the flooring is considered the most problematic due to the textured base.

Difficulties in laying roll coverings on a plank base

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, let’s find out what difficulties are associated with laying the covering on plank bases:

• Firstly, the boardwalk is embossed and this relief will appear through the coating over time;
• Secondly, due to the difference in floor temperature and air temperature, moisture can accumulate under the linoleum, which will lead to mold;
• Third, the boardwalk is unstable, since old boards sag, which negatively affects the strength and foundation;
• Fourth, most wood flooring is painted with oil paints, but the glue does not cling to them, which means there will not be the required adhesion with the coating.

So, the problem is clear, all that remains is to decide on its solution.

Methods for laying coverings on a plank base

Let's find out how to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor? Firstly, you can level the base using a sanding machine, followed by filling in uneven areas with putty mixtures. This method is relevant for floors that are not too old, in which the boards do not sag or creak.

Secondly, you can lay certain board materials on top of the boardwalk, including plywood, oriented strand boards, wood fiber boards and other boards. This method is relevant for old foundations.

Thirdly, the boardwalk can be completely dismantled and a smooth, warm screed based on expanded clay concrete can be poured. This is an extreme option, which is only relevant if the rough wooden base is generally dilapidated.

Leveling boards with a sanding machine

I will say right away that this method is very labor-intensive, dusty and dirty. In addition, not everyone has a scraping or grinding machine. But, if the required tool is available, you can try.

The instructions for leveling the surface are as follows:

• Using a hammer and punch, we press the nails about 2 mm below the surface of the boards;
• Using a scraping machine, we make as many passes as necessary to level the boards to the same level;
• We fill the gaps between the boards with elastic putties or silicone sealant.

In addition to the fact that leveling wooden surfaces with sanding is a labor-intensive and dusty job, there is a high probability that on a painted floor you will miss a couple of nails and not drown their heads.
Such an oversight will lead to fatal consequences for the machine’s knives, which will have to be sharpened again.

Leveling the floor with slab materials

This type of preparation of a plank base is the most popular due to the ease of doing it yourself.

When choosing slabs for leveling, the following parameters are taken into account:

• height difference between the rough base and the door threshold;
• degree of floor unevenness;
• degree of thermal insulation of the subfloor;
• budget allocated for repairs.

The most popular material for leveling the base is multi-layer moisture-resistant plywood.

Among the advantages of the material we note:

• a wide range of standard sizes and, as a result, the ability to choose the optimal thickness;
• resistance of the multilayer structure to mechanical loads;
• perfectly flat surface in comparison with other slab materials;
• high density of the structure, due to which screws are well held in the thickness of the slab;
• reasonable price.

Leveling technology

Instructions for leveling with plywood boards depend on the levelness of the wooden base.

If the subfloor does not have significant differences in levels, you can lay plywood directly on the boards. In this case, the level of the base will rise by the thickness of the laid material. If the floor has significant differences in level, logs are pre-installed on which plywood is laid.

Let's say you examined the floor in a room and found out that it is not level enough. What do we do in this case?

The instructions for leveling the base are as follows:

• We screw in self-tapping screws over the entire area of ​​the base at a distance of 30 cm from each other, so that they are located above the floor at a height of 2 cm;
• using a water level and a cord, tighten the screws so that they come to the same level;

• using self-tapping screws (beacons) we install micro-lags (slats) no more than 2 cm thick;
• We fix the logs with wood glue or liquid nails, placing plywood inserts under them to level the surface;
• We lay a substrate no more than 2 mm thick on top of the logs;
• cut plywood sheets into square pieces with a side of 1 m;

• We fasten the pieces with self-tapping screws to pre-installed joists, pre-drilling the holes for the caps;
• after the first layer of plywood is laid, we lay the second layer, and place the slabs offset relative to the slabs in the first layer;
• after the floor is completely leveled, we pass along its surface with a grinding machine, removing differences at the junction of the plates;
• we fill the recesses for the screws and the gaps between the plates with silicone sealant.

Similarly, you can level the floor using chipboard, OSB, fiberboard, etc. But in the case of using other board materials, the thickness of the leveling layer with the same coating strength will be greater.

Leveling the base with a warm screed

If the boardwalk is very old and has not been repaired for a long time, it will be easier not to restore it, but to completely remove it and fill it with expanded clay concrete screed.

Due to high content expanded clay, such screeds are much lighter than conventional ones concrete foundations, and therefore can be used both in country houses, and in apartments on the floor.

The proportions of expanded clay concrete are as follows:

• 1 part cement;
• 2 parts sand;
• 3 parts expanded clay.

The composition is made an order of magnitude thinner than ordinary concrete, which is due to the high absorbency of expanded clay. After expanded clay concrete has gained grade strength, the surface is leveled with a thin layer of cement-sand mixture.

Flooring installation

So, I talked about the most popular methods of leveling bases for laying roll (soft) coverings. All that remains is to find out how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

Let's look at each of the stages listed in the diagram in more detail.

If the base is ready, the installation instructions are not much different from the standard linoleum flooring technology. On initial stage acclimatization of the material is carried out. That is, the purchased roll is kept at room temperature for several hours.

After this, the canvas is unrolled and laid with the finishing side up for a day for leveling. This is a mandatory step, which allows you to prevent the appearance of waves when gluing; in addition, leveled linoleum is much easier to cut.

The cutting of the material is carried out taking into account the configuration of the room and taking into account the color of the canvas:

• If linoleum imitates the surface of parquet, we place it so that the direction of the boards goes in the direction of the light from the window, then the floor covering will look much more advantageous. Again, take into account the location of the thresholds and do not forget to leave 5-10 cm of overlap on each wall. These excesses can be removed after gluing;
• After cutting, the material folds in waves and moves closer to front door. Apply the glue starting from the wall furthest from the front door. We glue the covering, gradually moving towards the front door;

If you notice that the coating is uneven, it can be unrolled and corrected within 5 minutes after installation and this will not affect the quality of installation.

• We carefully glue the linoleum near the walls and in the corners. After the coating is glued, but the glue has not yet dried, we level the coating with a rubber roller or a damp mop. As a result, there should be no wrinkles or blisters on the floor surface;
• After the covering is glued, use a sharp mounting knife to cut the linoleum around the perimeter of the walls. The final stage installation work is one that presses the coating around the perimeter.

Selection of materials for installation

The table lists glue modifications that will ensure optimal adhesion of PVC linoleum and plywood.

Conclusion

So, is it possible to lay linoleum on a wooden floor? Of course, you can, but you need to do it correctly. To make the task easier, watch the video in this article.

You know, others are more effective ways laying linoleum? Write about them in the comments to the article, it will be interesting.

Every person strives to make their home as cozy and comfortable as possible. And the flooring plays an important role in this process. Today there is large number types of floor coverings.

They differ in their external characteristics, cost, durability and strength. And the most popular type of material is linoleum. This coverage is affordable for every person.

In this article we will similarly talk about the advantages, types and rules for choosing such material. We’ll also tell you how to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

Features of the material

Today, the vast majority of buyers know linoleum as an inexpensive, practical, synthetic material.

However, not everyone knows that initially this flooring was completely natural. It was made entirely from natural ingredients: tree resin and flour, jute, linseed oil and other products. This coating was completely safe for human health and environment. However, the cost of the material was quite high. Therefore, natural linoleum has not become as widespread as its synthetic counterpart.

Modern linoleum consists of several layers. The backing is most often made of polyvinyl chloride, rubber or fabric. Depending on this, linoleum is divided into several varieties:

• PVC. This type of flooring is the most common. It has excellent performance characteristics. However, it is completely unstable to low temperatures;
• relin. Perhaps this is the most plastic and moisture-resistant type of linoleum. The outer layer of relin is made of rubber, and the backing consists of bitumen and crushed rubber;
• marmoleum. This type of linoleum is noticeably different from others. Because it is made from environmentally friendly materials and is completely safe for human health and the environment. This coating is characterized by hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties. You can lay it in the children's room without fear;

• Griftal. In another way, this type of linoleum is called alkyd. The production of this type of material is carried out by applying special resins to a textile base. This material is characterized by excellent heat and sound-absorbing qualities;
• nitrocellulose or colloxylin material. This flooring also has high performance characteristics. However, over time it may become deformed.

Linoleum is also classified depending on its purpose and comes in three types:

• domestic. The name of this type of material speaks for itself. Household linoleum is intended for residential premises and is not very thick. The material is quite wear-resistant, but is not intended for excessive loads. Most often it consists of one or two layers. The design options for such floor coverings are very diverse: from plain coatings to imitation stone, marble, tiles or laminate;
• semi-commercial. This coating option is thicker and more durable. It is noticeably more durable and slightly more expensive than household linoleum. Designed for rooms with average traffic;
• commercial. This is the most durable and reliable type of linoleum. It is incredibly durable, and for this reason, the cost of this option is the highest of all listed. Most often, commercial linoleum is laid in rooms with extremely high traffic. For example, in shops, schools, hospitals, kindergartens.

Let's look at the main advantages of linoleum over other floor coverings: thanks to which it has become so popular among buyers:

• Democratic price. It is for the price-quality ratio that such material has become so widespread. Anyone can cover the floor in their home with linoleum, regardless of the size of their wallet. Of course, there are a large number of types of this material, which differ significantly in cost. However, everyone will still be able to choose the material in accordance with their budget.

This material will cost you several times less than coverings made of natural wood or tiles. At the same time, in terms of its performance characteristics, linoleum is only slightly inferior to its more expensive analogues.

• Long service life. Linoleum is a very durable material. The average shelf life of such floor coverings is at least ten years. Moreover, some manufacturers claim that their products will retain their original appearance even after two decades of use. If we compare this parameter with the cost of the material and its qualities, then even the most skeptical buyers will have no doubt about the benefits of such a purchase.

• Variety of colors. In the catalogs of modern stores you will find a huge selection of linoleum for every taste. This can be an effective and fairly high-quality imitation of more expensive coating options: tiles, natural stone, parquet, etc. Or any other coating design. Color solutions and styles are limited only by your imagination.

• Easy installation. To install household linoleum, you do not need any special knowledge, skills or special tools. You can easily cope with this task yourself, without resorting to outside help. In this case, the installation process will not take you much time. And you will immediately be able to walk on the new floor.

• Moisture resistant. Thanks to this property, linoleum can be laid in the bathroom and kitchen without fear. After all, it is in such rooms that there is the most moisture and pollution. Also, the floor covering can be washed using a large amount of water, without compromising the quality characteristics of the material. Moreover, even if the apartment is flooded, the linoleum covering will not be damaged and you will not have to change it.

• Easy to care for. To get rid of dirt and dust accumulated on the floor surface, simply wipe the surface with a soft cloth. You don't have to spend too much time and effort on caring for the material. Which will make any housewife very happy.

Which linoleum is better?

As you can see, each type of linoleum has certain pros and cons. Therefore, the final choice of one option or another depends on your preferences and the characteristics of the room for which the flooring is intended.

First, you should consider the degree of traffic in the room. The more intense the expected load, the stronger and thicker the material should be. The specifics of the space should also be taken into account.

For example, for the kitchen, bathroom and corridor, the most optimal option would be the coating models that are most resistant to moisture, deformation and abrasion.

Hypoallergenic and healthy types of linoleum should be placed in the child’s room, such as marmoleum. Almost all types of linoleum are suitable for the living room. Therefore, the final choice will depend on the external characteristics of the coating.

How to choose?

Taking into account the above information, you can already choose high-quality linoleum that will definitely satisfy you with its characteristics. However, there are a few more tips to help you make a smart purchase.

So, since the material will be laid on a wooden floor, you should remember some of its features. For example, the best option for a wooden surface would be synthetic linoleum, not natural.

This is due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride does not rot and has a special foam backing, which consists of several layers. This means that this type of linoleum has low thermal conductivity, which will allow you to retain heat in your country house, private house, apartment or Khrushchev building.

In addition, PVC flooring will provide excellent sound insulation. And then you will not need additional insulation.

We talked in detail about the features and characteristics of linoleum. Now is the time to figure out how to properly lay such material on a wooden floor.

Preparation

The better the preparation of the wooden base, the better the final result of the work. First, carefully inspect the floor. Under no circumstances should it have deep cracks, chips, mold or mildew. All boards must be whole and even. Otherwise, you will have to replace them or level them using a plane or other suitable tools.

Also be sure to check the security of each individual board. The elements should not move; the entire structure of the wooden floor must be securely fastened. An uneven or faulty old floor can cause you a lot of inconvenience when installing your flooring.

If this is necessary, it is better to prepare the surface with putty. It won’t take much time to putty well, but the result will definitely please you. By the way, if you are going to lay linoleum on a painted floor, be sure to completely remove the old paint from the boards before you begin installation.

After you are finally convinced of the reliability of the wooden floor and have prepared the surface, you should take care to ensure that the surface becomes more even. To do this, you need to place sheets of fiberboard or plywood on top of the boards.

This is necessary in order to avoid deformation of the linoleum during operation. After all, naked wooden boards tend to sag under load. While sheets of plywood or fiberboard placed on top will easily eliminate this drawback. This means that the flooring will retain its original appearance much longer.

So, surface preparation is complete. Now it's time to start preparing the linoleum. Before installing linoleum, it is best to first spread the material on the floor. This is necessary so that the linoleum straightens after storage and accepts the room temperature. Without such a procedure, you should not start laying to avoid unwanted defects.

Carefully ensure that there are no bends or creases left on the linoleum sheet.

How to put it correctly?

If you want to properly lay linoleum with your own hands, you should carefully follow all the rules of installation technology. First of all, decide on the direction of the drawing. Make sure that the joints are as inconspicuous as possible. We also recommend that you ensure that the temperature in the room during installation is stable. This way you will avoid deformation of the material.

Next, you need to decide how you will attach the material to the wooden floor. There are three most common options for installing linoleum yourself: without gluing and with gluing:

• What can I use to glue it? To glue linoleum to the floor, special glue or double-sided tape is most often used. The material is secured both at the joints and over the entire surface. The last installation option is the most durable. Moreover, sometimes, in order to secure the material, some decide to nail it to the floor. In this case, it is best to attach the material to nails with decorative heads so that the coating in the house looks as neat as possible.

• Do I need to glue it? The answer to such a question can only be obtained by yourself, having carefully assessed all the conditions. If you want to lay the floor “forever” and do not intend to change the floor material in the future, then it is best to use glue when laying it. This is especially true for spacious rooms. In small rooms it is quite acceptable to lay linoleum without glue or tape. They can only be used when you still need to attach joints or make a hatch.

Secrets and subtleties

As you can see, laying linoleum is not at all difficult. The main thing is not to forget about the basic rules. Let us repeat once again that the main thing is preparation. If you do not seal the cracks, then in the future the flooring will stretch and lose its visual appeal.

It should also be remembered that without plywood or fiberboard previously laid on a wooden floor, the linoleum will spread unevenly.

And if you don’t pay enough attention to preparing the boards and miss the fungus, then you shouldn’t be surprised that the base under the linoleum will rot and simply break over time. By the way, if you are going to lay thin linoleum in a rather cold room,

In order not to waste time and effort on restoring an old wooden floor, linoleum is laid on it. However, this process It is distinguished by certain subtleties, without which linoleum will not serve its owners the proper service life. In addition, there may be a risk of squeaking on a wooden floor while walking on it. We’ll talk further about how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

Linoleum on a wooden floor: types of material for installation

In relation to the main component of linoleum, this material is:

• polyvinyl chloride - for the manufacture of this linoleum it is necessary to use polymers, there are two types of material - with a base, without it, in addition, the base can be foam, fabric or thermal insulation;
• linoleum having a foam base - the material consists of 4 layers, this material has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties, it also has strength, flexibility, and a long service life, this type of linoleum is installed in rooms with high level moisture or heavy operating load;

• fabric base for linoleum involves the use of a special fabric on which a protective coating is applied, ensuring its safety during the operation of linoleum; the material is quite plastic and has high strength;
• the soundproofing or heat-insulating base for linoleum has many advantages; felt or foamed reinforced synthetic material is used to make this material; polyvinyl chloride film is applied to it as protection;
• linoleum, which does not have a base, has a uniform texture, in addition, it has high performance characteristics and good moisture resistance;
• alkyd-based material - characterized by the presence of mineral fillers and resins of alkyd origin; both natural and synthetic materials are used to make the base; among the disadvantages of this type of linoleum are its low plasticity and tendency to crack and crease formation;
• linoleum on rubber has a two-layer texture, the bottom layer is based on bitumen and rubber, and the top layer is colored rubber, among the features of rubber linoleum they note high performance plasticity, moisture resistance and the ability to use in rooms with high levels of moisture, a wide range of colors;
• colloxyl type linoleum is characterized by the presence of a nitrocellulose coating, it has high performance fire safety, bends well and is distinguished by the presence of a peculiar shine.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: preliminary preparation

Before laying linoleum, the wooden base should be carefully checked for gross defects, debris, rot, etc. If there is no mold and mildew on the wooden floor, and if there are only small flaws, you can begin direct work on laying the linoleum flooring.

Floor preparation, in this case, is based on the following actions:

• fixing all boards and slats on the floor surface;
• absence of elevations, differences in height on the floor, its leveling; for these purposes you will need a grinding machine or an electric plane;
• all fastener heads are recessed by 1-2 mm, and the recesses are puttied using a special mixture designed for working with wooden surfaces;
• surface grinding;
• removal of debris that was formed as a result of this process.

Please note that if a wooden floor wears unevenly, if there are too many problems on one of its parts, such as fungus or mold, it is necessary to replace the previously damaged boards.

A simpler option would be to lay plywood, which will hide all visible defects and at the same time make the floor surface perfectly flat.

To fix the material, self-tapping screws are used, the heads of which should also be hidden a few centimeters. Next, the surface is puttied and further polished.

This option allows you to simplify and facilitate the procedure for laying linoleum on the floor. Please note that linoleum should be laid on a wooden base only after it has been properly processed and prepared.

Leveling a wooden floor with plywood

If the floor covering cannot be restored, if it has a large number of defects, then in order to quickly repair it and in order to save money and time, it is recommended to level the base of the floor with plywood before laying linoleum.

To spend this procedure you will need:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• building level;
• roulette;
• screws and dowels.

Before starting leveling, check the floor for squeaks. If this is present, then take care of replacing old creaking boards with new ones. In addition, the base should be leveled under the plywood to ensure a level floor.

Next, the log is installed; for these purposes, a water level should be used. Please note that the thickness of the plywood for laying linoleum should be at least one centimeter. To level the base, logs should be installed; plywood is used to make them; the width of each log is about 30 mm. Before laying the logs, you should make markings according to which they will be located on the floor.

To determine the horizontal location of the joists, use a building level. The next stage is arranging the sheathing; it should be the same size as the plywood. A sealant is used to fill the free space between the joists. The final stage is fixing the plywood on the surface wooden covering. Please note that all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic preparations, which will protect them from mold and mildew.

To fix the plywood, you need self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Before installing the screws, use an electric drill to drill holes for them. This will prevent the plywood from cracking. All fastener heads are hidden several centimeters deep into the plywood.

After sanding the surface, linoleum is laid on it, the installation features of which will be discussed later.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor: technology and recommendations

Please note that before laying linoleum in the room there should not be too sudden temperature changes for at least two days. In addition, the recommended air temperature is more than 19 degrees Celsius and humidity is about 50%.

Before laying linoleum, the material should be left in the room to acclimatize for 24 hours.

You should also pay attention to the following technological nuances:

• when laying linoleum in a room with a large area, in the process of purchasing several rolls, you should be sure to choose material from only one batch, since there is a risk of differences in color or shade in different rolls of linoleum;
• if a polyvinyl chloride-based coating is laid, then a reverse method is used for these purposes; each sheet should be in contact with each other on the same side, thus eliminating the risk of color mismatch;
• When laying linoleum on a natural basis or a coating that imitates wood, it should be installed in such a way that the texture has one direction.

There are several ways to lay linoleum on a wooden floor:

• direct laying of the material - this method is one of the simplest and fastest, however, its disadvantage is the unreliability of the resulting base; it is used exclusively in rooms with a small (up to twelve square meters) area, this installation method is based on carefully leveling the linoleum on the surface and fixing it with baseboards;
• using double-sided tape - using this method of installation allows you to increase the service life of the linoleum covering, first stick the tape around the perimeter of the room, and then in a lattice-like form throughout the room, remove the protective film from the tape immediately after applying it to the floor, try to smooth it well linoleum in the process of laying it;
• using glue - this method is the most reliable, since such linoleum adheres firmly to the surface, does not deform and is used for a long time.

How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: laying linoleum with glue

In order to easily cope with the installation of linoleum on a wooden base using glue, you should read the instructions that will help you do this:

1. Mark the installation location for each piece of linoleum. Cut it into sections, if necessary. Please note that a margin of about 45-50 cm should be left for each side. After acclimatization of the linoleum, all excess is removed.
2. After preparing the canvas, one part of it is wrapped. Using a pencil, mark the border along which the glue will be applied.
3. It is recommended to use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive.
4. The procedure for applying glue should be based primarily on the instructions from the manufacturer of this material.
5. Next, the linoleum is laid on the previously applied glue and thoroughly leveled, first with your hands and then with a roller.
6. The same should be done with the remaining part of the unglued linoleum.

In the process of laying linoleum in a large room, sometimes it is necessary to install from one to three, and even four sheets of linoleum. The installation principle remains unchanged. Just take into account the fact that each new sheet is laid with an overlap on the previous one. The overlap size is about two centimeters. Thus, the seams will be perfectly even, and the edges will be cut without much effort.

Advice: You should not fix linoleum on the surface exclusively with skirting boards, even if the room is small, but there is the possibility of laying linoleum with glue, then you should definitely use it.

In the process of laying linoleum on the floor without glue, with prolonged use, it begins to deform.

Joints should only be cut 48 hours after laying the linoleum. For these purposes, you will need a long steel ruler and a special stationery knife. Make sure to cut the seam evenly, try to remove all excess linoleum at once, and place a board and weight at the joint until the linoleum is completely dry.

When using linoleum, try to avoid using abrasive chemicals to clean it, as they can lead to cracking and dulling of the surface. The easiest way to care for linoleum is to wash it with warm, soapy water and a cloth.

To protect linoleum from mechanical stress, it is recommended to use special mastics and polishes. To prevent the furniture from scratching the linoleum, special linings are put on it.

Recommendations for choosing linoleum for laying on a wooden base

• A too strong smell of linoleum indicates an incorrect manufacturing technology. Most often, the material contains a large number of additives harmful to human health.
• In addition, high-quality linoleum does not have a greasy sheen, it has a clear and specific texture, and the minimum number of layers is 4.5, depending on the type of material.
• In accordance with the width, most often a material is selected that matches the width of the room in which it will be installed. When making calculations, also take into account the presence of niches, protrusions, radiators and other elements under which linoleum does not fit.
• Try to buy linoleum in stores rather than in markets, since to determine its quality it is necessary that it be at room temperature.
• Ask the consultant for documents that confirm its safety and compliance with all standards and requirements.

• Try to roll out the linoleum in the store to make sure there are no bumps, depressions, waves or other defects on it.
• Never fold linoleum sheets in half. In addition, it is prohibited to cover its front surface with tape. Most often, after rolling, the front side of the linoleum is on the inside. Otherwise, a special film is used to protect the roll.
• Try to choose a material that has a protective coating on top; it allows the linoleum pattern to last longer, and the cleaning process is much faster.

Linoleum on wooden floor video:

What can anyone do if they have no experience in repair work? Whitewashing the ceiling, wallpapering, laying linoleum. This is enough to make the house shine with new colors. If the floor is made of wood, then you need to know a few points about laying linoleum on a wooden floor.

Humanity's need for high-quality, comfortable and beautiful flooring has always been great. The earthen floor was replaced by clay, then concrete, covered with boards, then parquet - the history of the development of flooring is considered not in years, but in centuries. After all, it is much more pleasant to walk on a flat, warm, even soft surface. So people came up with oilcloth - a mixture of oil, resin and wax on a fabric base. Now science and technology give us more and more new species, using natural and artificial materials.

Variety of colors

• Performance characteristics. For rooms, a medium-strength household coating is suitable, and for the kitchen and corridor - a semi-commercial coating, whose wear resistance is greater than that of the previous type.
• Softness and elasticity. For an apartment, it would be more convenient to use a material with a felt or foam base, which gives the coating good sound and heat insulation properties. The foam base, moreover, almost does not shrink and is not afraid of water, which is why it is often used in the kitchen.
• Colors. The greatest number of patterns and colors is available in a multi-layer coating made of foam materials. The thickness of the painted layer is 2-6 mm, the thickness of the protective layer (on which the service life depends) is 0.15-0.7 mm.

PVC linoleum with non-woven (felt) base

We remember that the most wear-resistant types are used in rooms where the load is maximum - the kitchen and corridor.

For rooms with medium and light loads, increased performance properties are not necessary.

Preparing floors for laying linoleum coverings

Linoleum should be laid exclusively on a flat horizontal surface. If the floor is uneven, with protrusions and bumps, then in these places it will begin to wear faster and break, forming cracks.

Rough floor leveling

Consider the situation with regular painted wood floors. What to do:

• Remove baseboards;
• Remove the paint (this can be done with a regular spatula, heating the paint with a hair dryer);
• Check the strength of the flooring from the boards (if some boards begin to rot, they need to be replaced with fresh ones);
• Eliminate mobility and creaking of floorboards (the easiest way here is to attach the boards to the joists with self-tapping screws);
• Deepen the heads of nails and screws into the boards, preferably to a depth of at least 5 mm;
• Fill cracks and chips, lay patches in cracks wider than 5 mm;
• Level the floor surface (it will be most convenient to use a parquet sander);
• Thoroughly clean the floor of debris and dust (vacuum, wash the floors, dry well).

If the height differences are small (no more than 1-2 mm), then you can start laying. In the case of very old floors, when perfection has not been achieved, you can try a couple of the simplest options for leveling the surface to the desired state.

We use plywood (chipboard, OSB or MDF)

The choice of underlay depends on the unevenness of the subfloor. The greater the height difference, the thicker the substrate sheets we choose. For small differences, plywood from 5 mm thick is suitable. If we are leveling the floor in the kitchen or bathroom, then we need to use waterproof plywood. We select plywood sheets in such a way that they are laid in strips offset relative to each other by about half a sheet (brickwork). We leave a gap of about 10 mm near the walls, but there should not be one between the sheets.

We apply special glue or mastic to the pre-treated floor (add construction plaster to PVA glue until it becomes thick sour cream). This mastic should perfectly fill the unevenness. We lay the sheets, fix them with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm, deepening the head as much as possible. We fill the gaps between the plates and the heads of the screws with putty and sand them. And you can even walk along the joints with a plane.

We wait for the plywood to dry and treat it with hot drying oil (you can simply paint it with quick-drying floor paint). After drying, installation is carried out.

We use a self-leveling mixture

To even out more in a simple way, a self-leveling mixture is used. Such mixtures can be purchased at construction stores. With their help, differences of up to 2 cm are leveled out. However, it should be remembered that the mixture is quite liquid, so during pre-treatment it is necessary to thoroughly putty all the cracks, ensuring tightness.

We impregnate the prepared dry surfaces with a special primer, which enhances the adhesion between the floor boards and the mixture. We cover the sides of the walls with insulating material, and glue the joint with expanded polystyrene, creating an expansion joint. In the doorway we place a wooden plank that limits the future floor.

We lay out a reinforcing mesh (with an overlap of 5 cm) and fasten it to the boards with a construction stapler. Mixing thoroughly, add the dry mixture to the water. Fill, distribute evenly with a rubber spiked roller or rubber mop. Dry according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After drying, lay the linoleum covering on the wooden floor.

We measure the dimensions according to the largest lengths and widths of the walls, taking into account doorways, ledges and niches, with a margin of 5 cm on all sides. If you choose linoleum with a pattern, then add to the dimensions a repeat of the pattern in each direction.

The temperature in the room where installation will be carried out must be at least 15°C (and the optimum is 18°C) and remain for 48 hours before installation and the same amount after it. Air humidity is 40-60%, floors are dried as much as possible.

The purchased material should be spread on the floor with the pattern facing up and left for a day or two so that it can spread out well and acclimatize. If you bought it in winter, then let it stand in the roll for 24 hours before rolling it out.

Flooring is laid in several ways. First, we lay it out on the floor (the plinths have an overlap of 4-5 cm - if the walls have protrusions or niches; if at least one wall is flat, then we lay the linoleum along it with a gap of 1 cm, with an overlap on the opposite wall). We level the canvas from the center to the walls. It should lie flat, without bends or creases. The drawing should go along the longest wall. We make cuts in the corners for a better fit of the coating to the walls. All trimming is done in small sections along a metal ruler.

Free styling rules

Free laying on a wooden base

Suitable for rooms up to 20 square meters. m inclusive, where there will be no heavy load on the floor (for example, constant rearrangement of heavy furniture). Linoleum on a thick base, most often foam, is well suited for this layout. It should be selected as a whole piece so as not to make unnecessary joints, which may move during this installation.

The straightened canvas is covered with aluminum nozzles under the baseboards, and secured in the doorway with metal slats.

Fastening with double-sided tape

We cut the stock to fit the baseboard

To fix it more firmly, the sheets are placed on double-sided tape. We glue the tape on one side along the perimeter of the floor. For better fixation (if there are sufficiently intense loads on it), the adhesive tape is glued in stripes over the entire surface, or crosswise in places of the highest load.

We glue the linoleum itself in parts. Having folded half of the canvas, remove the protection from the tape. We straighten this part, fixing it with tape. We bend the second half and repeat the operation. After it is laid evenly and glued, we trim the overlaps with 10 mm gaps at the walls. Next, we lay the baseboard and secure the linoleum in the doorway with a batten.

Bonding technology

Applying adhesive for installation

If the room is more than 20 sq. m or more than two strips will be laid, then it needs to be placed on glue. What glue to use is most often indicated in the instructions, and a salesperson at a hardware store can also give advice on this.

First, we cover the floor and the lower part of the canvas with a primer and only then proceed to gluing. Having folded back about a third, use a notched trowel to evenly distribute the glue or mastic. We lay linoleum on top of the adhesive layer, straightening it and pressing it well to the floor. It is best to press with a special heavy roller or wooden block. We carefully ensure that no air bubbles remain between the floor and the covering sheet. We move the roller or block in the direction from the center to the walls. We glue the remaining material in exactly the same way.

We process the edge along the walls in the same way as in previous cases, install a plinth and a fixing strip.

The glue should dry from 7 to 10 days. During drying, make sure that there is no swelling of the linoleum. If a bubble does appear, you need to put it on it. plywood sheet, and put something heavy on top, for example, a bag of sand.

Joining two or more strips of linoleum

If the room is too large or you are simply unlucky to find a covering of the required width and you have to lay two (or more) strips, then such joints also need to be glued. The overlap of the strips should be at least 10 cm. We carefully monitor the coincidence of the pattern. We cut both layers approximately in the middle of the overlap. We achieve a perfect combination of canvases, joint to joint.

Now these joints need to be glued. The most convenient way is cold welding. Apply masking tape along the seam. We guide the tip of the tube with cold welding glue along the joint of the strips. The fusion adhesive should penetrate 2-3 mm into the seam. We leave the excess to evaporate. Under no circumstances should you remove it yourself! Once the edges are completely welded, the masking tape can be removed.

These are all the main secrets of proper installation of linoleum fabric. The worse the condition of your floors, the more work you will have to do and vice versa.

Enjoy your renovation!

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor is a troublesome task, especially its preparatory part. But this only applies to those cases where the surface is not smooth enough. If the linoleum itself is of high quality, the floor is leveled, laying the covering will be successful even for a beginner.

The most labor-intensive job is laying linoleum on an old plank floor. Avoiding unevenness in this case is not easy, but the task is doable, you just need to tinker a little longer.

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, you need to start preparing this very floor.

It starts with assessing the condition of the surface. Even if you can’t call it perfectly level, if it doesn’t creak or wobble, there will be much fewer problems.

An important point before installation is the elimination of fungi and rot. If there is no mold, the nail heads are not rusty, the boards do not show signs of deformation by insects, there will be less hassle. If you see rotten boards, it is correct not to ignore this fact, but to replace them - otherwise, the rot will continue.

If the floor sag or creaks, you will have to place blocks under the floorboards and/or pour talc into the cracks.

So, subject to correction:

• Creaking boards;
• Rotting or rotten boards;
• Cracks in boards;
• Recesses between boards, gaps;
• Remains of old paint on the boards.

Old paint can be removed using a spatula and a hair dryer. The latter will warm up the floor, after which the paint will be removed with a spatula.

Preparatory work

If the floor is strong enough, but its surface is uneven, a sanding machine or plane will help. Many people prefer to scrape the floor by hand, but this will take a lot of time and take a lot of effort.

A mandatory point is the deepening of the nails. All cracks between the boards must be filled.

The surface needs to be treated, because all irregularities will certainly appear on the linoleum. If the unevenness of the floor is not so harmless and has differences in its height, you cannot limit yourself to just sanding.

Floor leveling methods

The most common methods:

1. Leveling with sheet material;
2. Leveling with a special mixture.

The second method is more popular because it is more familiar. For this case, plywood, fiberboard, furniture panels, and hardboard are used. If the purpose of these manipulations is only to eliminate unevenness, it is very important to fix the sheets correctly. Fiberboard or plywood is secured with a special glue for parquet, and then nailed to the floor with nails, or, alternatively, with a construction stapler. Gypsum + PVA are often used as glue.

If the goal is to create a horizontal surface, the sheets will need to be laid on logs. The joists are made from plywood strips or blocks and are fixed to the floor with glue.

No matter how the fiberboard sheets are laid (in addition to fiberboard, we also include plywood, panels, and hardboard), the seams are puttied in any case. The final stage is to cover the surface with a layer of drying oil.

It may be a mistake to decide on additional thermal insulation (sometimes waterproofing), because it is this functionality that the linoleum base takes on.

Let's not forget about the simplest ones Preliminary steps required:

• Clean (including vacuuming);
• Wash;
• Dry.

Now you can start working directly with linoleum.

Preparing linoleum

We buy linoleum with a margin of at least 7-15 cm, and we also take into account the allowance for thermal shrinkage.

When transporting material, do not bend it; creases can easily occur. At home, linoleum is usually spread on the floor and “cured” for a couple of days. And rightly so: such an adaptation will help the material fit perfectly. It doesn’t matter what we have under the linoleum – whether it’s plywood, fiberboard or another material.

And a few more small tips:

• It is more advantageous to place single-color sheets in the direction of daylight;
• It is better to place linoleum joints in the middle of the board;
• Places for the battery and other protrusions are marked in advance, after which we carefully cut them out.

We fix and lay linoleum

You can also lay linoleum on fiberboard or plywood without fastening: but this is appropriate if the room is small. Maximum – 12 square meters. The canvas will be attached with skirting boards and a threshold in the opening.

Linoleum is often secured with double-sided tape. Usually, gluing along the perimeter of the canvas is sufficient, but sometimes additional strips stretch in the middle of the linoleum sheet, and are thus attached to plywood or fiberboard, or simply a leveled wooden floor.

The adhesive tape method takes place in stages: first one side is peeled off and fixed, then the other, etc.

Placing linoleum on glue guarantees the strength of the fastening; it is better to purchase a special glue created for this purpose. First, one part of the sheet is coated and glued, then the second. The surface should then be rolled with a roller, and the room should not be filled with furniture for at least seven days. That is, the linoleum will take another week to harden.

It happens that when laying linoleum, two pieces are connected. They need to be glued with a slight overlap. In the place of this overlap, two layers are cut off at once with a sharp knife (cut along a ruler). The so-called cold welding must be applied to the seam.

Laying linoleum (video)

Conclusion

Laying the linoleum itself goes quickly, and problems rarely arise in this matter. But floor unevenness shows through even the most perfectly fixed linoleum. Make sure that the plank floor is free of rotten boards, does not creak or wobble, make the surface level, and then in the second part of the event - installation - there will be no difficulties.