Probably there is no year without hurricane and squally winds. They create a lot of troubles everywhere. The “victims” are often trees.
Hurricane winds primarily affect old specimens that once survived frosty winters. Why them? Yes, because their trunks inside are often rotten or completely empty. And extremely low temperatures of the order of -40°C “hit” first of all the wood; if the bark and cambium are also damaged, then such trees die.
Life goes on
In a hardened state, which is possible in the middle of winter, with a gradual decrease in temperature, the bark and cambium can remain alive. In such cases, thanks to the surviving cambium, new layers of wood gradually, year after year, grow, and the old one inside is destroyed. These trees continue to live and bear fruit from their outer tissues, although inside they are hollow, like pipes. Sooner or later, such trunks break due to the weight of the crop, sticking snow, but most often from hurricane winds.
It will not be possible to save these trees, but it is necessary to anticipate possible situations. Practice shows that long-lasting gardens can be created primarily by varieties with durable wood, for example, Cinnamon striped, Summer striped, etc. Less winter-hardy fruits, but with a dessert taste, can be grafted into their crowns - Melba, Lobo, Spartak and others.
However, winter-hardy trees can also break if they are not formed correctly (the trunk is too high and bare, branches at an acute angle from the trunk, etc.). In such cases, the broken crown cannot be restored, but the tree can be revived. It is necessary to cut down all the damaged branches, down to the first surviving one, cover the wound with garden varnish, straighten the trunk, tying it to a stake. Such a forced operation will cause the growth of shoots in different places of the trunk in the spring. Subsequently, a new crown can be formed from them, taking into account previous mistakes.
Similar sanitary pruning with the removal of broken branches should be immediately carried out on an adult tree to prevent further breaking and scuffing of the bark.
Trees that have become hollow due to improper pruning also break, leaving stumps that gradually dry out and destroy the surrounding trunk tissue. Breaks are also inevitable in places where there are constrictions due to stretched ropes, wires, etc., which gradually cut into the branches or trunk that thicken as they grow.
A strong wind “helps” trees with a rotten trunk near the ground to fall, which occurs due to improper, too deep planting on heavy clay soils or because of microdepressions (craters) near the trunk in areas with high water. The tree must be planted in such a way that throughout its life the root collar (the place where the trunk transitions to the root) is not buried and is slightly higher general level land. But this is a topic for another discussion.
Due to gusts of squally wind, some trees fall to one side, sometimes so strongly that the roots turn outward. The reasons may be different, but most often trees on vegetatively propagated (clonal) rootstocks, especially on their dwarf varieties, are susceptible to windfall.
When the anchor is weak
Dwarf rootstocks allow you to grow short trees with all their advantages. But they also have significant disadvantages, in particular, poor anchoring (insufficient fixation in the soil), since the root system of dwarf rootstocks occupies a small volume of soil. In this case, the architectonics of the tree are disrupted: it turns out that the supporting area of the “foundation” located in the ground is less than the diameter of the above-ground part. Such an imbalance inevitably leads to the collapse of even young trees, both from the weight of the harvest and from various weather “surprises” - strong winds, heavy rains, wet snow, etc. Therefore, for dwarf trees, it is necessary to trellis or individually fasten each plant to a strong support.
Poor anchoring can also occur in trees on vigorous clonal rootstocks that have a large root system, but are shallow in the soil. Trees on powerful seed rootstocks can also fall due to improper agricultural practices.. For example, in areas with high water (poor water permeability and, as a result, stagnation of melt and rain water on the soil surface), it is correctly recommended to plant high on mounds. But they need to be constantly expanded, as the roots grow. If this is not done, the roots dry out, freeze slightly, their peripheral growth is limited and the trees begin to fall.
Another common mistake is excessively loose soil.. Many gardeners, especially beginners, completely fill planting holes with imported soil of unknown origin, which attracts them with its dark color. However, most often its basis is ordinary peat. This soil is good for surface mulching and loosening clay soils. But in itself it does not have much nutritional value for plants: excessively loose soil is not suitable for fruit trees. It is not for nothing that peaty areas are first cultivated using loamy or turf soil, and only then gardens are created. Therefore, the holes must be filled with well-structured soil so that the plantings do not “float” after heavy rains.
Radical measures
It is useless to cover a tree that is falling over with earth, as some do; this will only cause the bark to become warm. More radical measures are needed here, depending on the cause. And they must be taken immediately, as soon as the roots begin to turn out. If this happened in the fall, do not wait for spring: sticking wet snow will add heaviness and increase the slope. When they are turned out, the roots are not only torn off, but also exposed. As a result, they will dry out, and even in slight frosts they may freeze out. After all, the roots cannot withstand such low temperatures as the crown, and even -12-15 ° C is lethal for them (in their “naked” form).
A support will help return a leaning tree to a vertical position.. First, carefully remove the top layer of soil around the plant. Then, on the side opposite from the collapse, drive a strong stake deeply at a distance of approximately 0.5 m from the stem. To create a counterweight, it is better to drive it in with a slight slope from the barrel. The roots of the tree will not be torn when pulled up if they are dug up. Then you need to knock down the ground from below, as much as is needed to level the tree. Sometimes this procedure is almost equivalent to replanting the plant, so after it it is necessary to water to fill the voids between the roots, additionally cover them with soil and mulch the soil surface. Next, tie the tree with a figure eight to the stake in 2-3 places, using a strong rope, technical tape, etc. If necessary, secure it with guy ropes to 2-3 stakes.
Such techniques are unlikely to help keep plants on unrelated rootstocks upright. For example, in a pear grafted on rowan, hawthorn, chokeberry, and quince, a discrepancy in the diameters of the grafting components gradually appears when the scion trunk thickens faster than the rootstock. This is a clear violation of the architectonics, in in this case and strong fastenings will not save: such specimens are short-lived due to the physiological incompatibility of the rootstock and the scion.
If you look closely at the condition of gardens in dacha and garden plots, it is easy to notice that even in the conditions of the same area, fruit trees differ sharply in their health.
It is especially painful to look at trees whose leaves suddenly do not bloom in the spring. They look like scary scarecrows. It is noteworthy that neither the reasons for this phenomenon nor measures to eliminate it are practically covered in the existing literature. At the same time, I know from my own experience and the experience of many of my neighbors that often such fruit trees can still be saved. Having summarized all the cases known to me, I want to talk about the main reasons for the death of fruit trees and methods for their resuscitation.
High groundwater level
As practice shows, the main reason for the death of fruit trees is most often high level groundwater on the site. Moreover, this level often remains in low-lying gardens even after their usual drainage. The following picture is typical: as long as the tree is small and its roots do not reach the water, it develops normally. But then they gradually go deeper and, having reached the water, they find themselves in anaerobic conditions; due to lack of oxygen, the roots partially die and cannot fully nourish the above-ground apparatus of the tree in the spring.
Most often, the life of a fruit tree barely glimmers in the first year, and the next year it usually dies. Does this mean that such an outcome is inevitable? Fortunately, no. The tree does not have to be uprooted, as inexperienced gardeners usually do. If you take timely measures, then all is not lost. Practice shows what to give new life A fruit tree is quite capable of even one of the following activities.
Balancing between the aboveground and underground parts of the fruit tree
This is achieved by early spring in order to avoid nutritional deficiency of the tree, all branches thicker than 1 cm are cut off. At the same time, the entire crown, including the central conductor, is significantly shortened. At the same time, thanks to the better proportion between the damaged root apparatus and the above-ground part, the fruit tree (apple tree, pear tree, plum tree, etc.), as a rule, comes to life and in the first year after such pruning is quite capable of producing a modest harvest. The following year, after the same repeated pruning, the crop can be fully restored. This happened in my garden with one of the plums, which I saved from death and returned fruiting to it.
Raising a fruit tree to the level of garden soil
Schemes for saving dying trees by raising the trunk to the soil level (A), replanting strong bushes to the tree (B), grafting the rootstock under the bark around the lesion (C) and eliminating breaks in the trunk and branches (D, E, F);
1 – standard; 2 – support; 3 – lever, shaft; 4 – bulk soil; 5 – wild animals; 6 – zone of inoculation of wild animals; 7 – rootstock; 8 – vaccination sites; 9, 13, 15 – fractures of the trunk or branches; 11 – faults; 12 – bolt, 14 – staples; 16 – screw.
This method is suitable for saving a dying tree aged 3-7 years. In this case, at some distance from the trunk, a support for the lever (vaga) is made from a strong pole with a diameter of about 8 cm and a length of 5-6 meters (Fig. A). One end of such a rope is securely attached to the tree trunk, and a load is either hung on the other, or a person carefully presses on it several times. About 10-15 buckets of water are first poured into the soil around the trunk to soak the soil. In this case, the lever gradually lifts the tree. And if the position of the lever is periodically fixed with a support, then after just a few days the required level of lifting of the tree is achieved, often without even damaging the roots. It was in this way that one of my neighbors in the area lifted a pear, it came to life and gradually restored its previous fruiting.
Replacing a tree trunk with wildflowers and root shoots
This technique (Fig. B) And (Fig. B) well suited for old fruit trees whose trunk has begun to rot and weaken. At the same time, the top of the specified plants - already ready or close to fruiting - is grafted under the bark. One of the neighbors in the area managed to use this technique to get three apple trees in the same place instead of one removed, and in the shortest possible time. Within a year, he received a harvest from this tree that was approximately twice as large as before.
Freezing of the crown and roots
Perhaps this reason leads to the death of fruit trees even more often than the previous one. And apple or pear trees suffer not so much from the frosts themselves, but from the sharp temperature changes characteristic of our climate. In this case, you must first establish the degree of freezing. To do this, longitudinal and transverse cuts are made on the branches or roots so that the color of the wood can be determined. If the pith and cambium are dark brown, the branches or roots are damaged and need help.
If the cuts on the wood are brown, this indicates slight freezing. In doubtful cases, it would not be superfluous to carry out a check in which the cut branches are placed in water in a warm room, covered with film, and their condition is assessed after a week. If the buds do not swell and bloom, then the branches of the tree are clearly damaged. Experience has shown that the following measures can best help:
A) If the branches of a tree are slightly frozen in the spring, even before the buds open, it is necessary to trim the crown, this will ensure reliable resuscitation of the tree. But if the branches are severely frozen, there is no need to rush to trim the crown. In this case, you should wait until the tree begins to grow, and only then prune for the tops growing from dormant buds;
b) Instead of trimming the crown, a technique that has recently been practiced by experienced gardeners works well. It involves spraying obviously frozen trees with cold water before sunrise. If this technique is carried out in a timely manner, the branches of the crown take a long time to thaw, since the water released from the cells in the form of tiny ice crystals is formed under conditions of slow heating. In no case should you use warm water, since rapid self-thawing causes the tree crown to die;
V) when the trunk or roots of a tree freeze, its reliable resuscitation is achieved by planting 4-5 strong two- or three-year-old wildlings with a developed fibrous system to the tree. If these wildflowers are planted in holes filled with fertile soil and watered well, and the tops are grafted under the bark of the doomed tree’s trunk in the same way as shown in Figure B, then it receives effective nutrition, moisture and comes to life. At the same time, mineral fertilizers cannot be added to the water, as they increase the concentration of the solution and impede its movement through the vessels to the above-ground part. If buds form on a revived tree, they should be cut off so that it becomes stronger by winter and prepares for the cold.
Damage to trunks by rodents
Such lesions usually occur when the trunks were not properly covered for the winter or this was done haphazardly. To revive such trees, the following activities can be carried out:
A) if only the bark of the trunk is damaged by rodents and only partially bast and wood, then such a tree can be saved by grafting a rootstock with pointed ends under the bark above the affected area, i.e. graft with a “bridge” on three or four sides of the trunk (Fig. B);
b) if the tree has been damaged by rodents up to half the diameter of the trunk, then to save it you can use either root shoot plants or specially grown rootstocks with their grafting to the trunk above the damage, similar to what is shown in Figure B. As experience shows, with systematic watering, fertilizing and shading, the root system of rootstocks within 1- After 2 years it reaches the garden soil, and its development intensifies. It should be noted that in cases shown as in the figure B, as in the figure IN, the grafting sites should be wrapped with polyethylene film, which should be replaced in the second year so that the wood is not constricted. Of no small importance in this case is the fastening of the scion and rootstock through the film with thin nails and cardboard washers.
Excessive crown load
This phenomenon quite often occurs due to a large mass of stuck and frozen snow, abundant harvest, strong wind, and sometimes due to careless handling. The result of all this most often is the breaking of double trunks growing at an acute angle, breaking off of large fruit-bearing branches and breaks of individual branches. Experienced summer residents use the following measures to save such trees, references to which are not available in the specialized literature:
A) when breaking double trunks it is justified to first tighten them with wire or ropes over the break, and then a bolt is inserted into the drilled hole, screwed with a nut (Fig. D);
b) when breaking thinner trunks with a diameter of 4-5 cm or when a large fruiting branch is broken off after a screed similar to the previous one, it is effective to use construction staples driven in crosswise from opposite sides (Fig. E);
V) when a small branch is broken off from the trunk a reliable connection is achieved by installing it at the point where the screw breaks off, but so that its end does not protrude outward (Fig. E).
It should be noted that before installing a temporary screed, the fracture site must be disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate, and after installing a bolt, bracket or screw, all fracture lines must be thoroughly coated with garden varnish, which protects the joints from moisture and rot.
Speaking of faults, one cannot fail to mention the occasional broken trunks of old trees: apple trees, pear trees, etc. Such trees should be cut down and uprooted, and then a place should be prepared for new plantings. If a young tree (apple tree, pear tree, plum tree) is broken, it should be cut down just below the break point, the cut should be cleaned and thoroughly coated with varnish. In this case, the sleeping buds below the cut are awakened. From the emerging shoots, you need to leave the more powerful one and form a new trunk and a new crown from it. The above examples from the experience of gardeners prove that in the vast majority of cases, fruit trees under threat of death can be successfully saved and their fruiting and beauty restored.
Anatoly Veselov, gardener
Looking up at a tall building means great ambition. Such a dream does not foretell the fulfillment of a wish. Climbing the steps to a magnificent tall building is a sign of happy changes in your life.
To see a beautiful tall building in a dream with a well-groomed lawn in front of it means the fulfillment of a cherished desire. Such a dream predicts you a serene life of abundance, pleasant trips to distant lands and respect from others. Seeing new buildings in a dream means new beginnings.
Watching the construction of a building or taking part in it is a sign that you will soon start a new business. Being the owner of a beautiful building in a dream is a sign that you will become the master of your destiny and achieve high position in society. Seeing an abandoned building in a dream is a sign that you will soon have problems in business.
If in a dream you refurbish an old building, then great success and wealth await you. Seeing an unfinished building in a dream is a sign that you will not be able to complete the job. Seeing a small cramped building in a dream means that you should be more modest. See interpretation: house, premises.
Interpretation of dreams from the Family Dream BookSubscribe to the Dream Interpretation channel!
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Dream Interpretation - Tree
Reflects a person's sense of self.
The trunk represents a person's place in society.
Foliage – relationships with other people.
Roots reflect stability and seriousness of purpose.
The bark is a symbol of your vulnerability or protection.
A forest, a few trees represent a group of people, a family.
A tree with a green, lush crown means prosperity and friendly support.
Dry trees without leaves mean difficulties and loneliness.
Fruit trees - profit, prosperity.
Flowering trees - love, feelings.
Dry branches - dead feelings and relationships.
Damaged bark - someone will take advantage of your trust.
Firewood, logs - dead or long-forgotten people will somehow remind you of themselves.
But to do this we need to understand what the individual parts of the tree are telling us.
Let us highlight individual characteristics of the tree. Let's see what they tell the dreamer.
Tree size. A tree that is too small indicates your insecurity and dependence on the powers that be. A tree of normal size will emphasize that you feel free and independent. The huge tree encourages you to reduce your ambitions (as in the example above).
Trunk. The trunk speaks of the dreamer’s strength: physical and moral. The thick trunk of the tree you see foretells that you will gain social weight. If the trunk is thin and swaying, then difficult things await you. life situation, which will not be easy for you to cope with. The trunk may be forked. If this is so, then the dream concerns the problem of relationships with a person close to you. Scars and hollows on the trunk remind you of diseases and operations previously suffered. But, as a rule, they belong to the past. However, a broken barrel should alert you. This is a harbinger of future troubles and life upheavals. What if you dream of a tree stump? This sign is not scary (if the tree did not break before your eyes). Most likely, this dream emphasizes that, as usual, you will show conservatism in affairs and relationships and will not accept the changes promised by the dream.
Branches. Remember where the branches of the tree you dreamed of were directed? If they stretched upward, it means your immediate plans will be realized. Branches hanging down indicate that you may not have enough energy to solve the problems that arise. Pay attention to broken or cut branches. This is a sign that you feel inferior in some area. Sometimes such cut branches, like hollows, appear in dreams after surgery. The only bad sign for the future is a branch that is broken off before your eyes.
Crown. A very favorable dream is in which you see a tree with a lush, green crown. This portends you many contacts and friendly communication. But if the crown is small and the foliage is sparse, then you are having difficulty finding partners and friends. And the problems indicated by the dream will have to be solved alone. And the most unfavorable case: seeing a tree with fallen leaves. This is a sign that you will experience a period of depression, loss of strength, loss vital energy, faith in the future. Or maybe you saw flowers on the tree in your dream? Then, perhaps, a sentimental relationship with someone awaits you, the blossoming of new feelings. You should pay close attention to such a message as fruit on a tree. On the one hand, they portend success and effectiveness in business and feelings. On the other hand, in our dreams fruits often fall, are wormy, and unripe. This means that the results of your activities can be used by someone else.
Roots. It is better for the dreamer if the roots of the tree are in the ground. If you dig them up, looking for something, you may discover some secret or strengthen your spiritual power. But seeing roots on the surface of the earth is a sign that you are looking for support. In such a dream, you may be shown something or someone you can lean on.
The tree of life is the symbolic axis of the world. The meaning of this Tree is that it unites such different elements as air, earth and water, i.e. those elements that are necessary for the existence of all life on earth. The tree of life is often depicted as a cross entwined with leaves. But human life is inseparable from the Tree of Knowledge. This Tree “tempts” a person with both the fruits of good and evil. The story of the Fall of Adam and Eve is connected with this Tree.
The Tree of Light, which is associated with the legend of the rebirth of souls. The connection with this tree is reflected in the custom of decorating the Christmas tree with candles and light bulbs.
These lights are symbols of wandering souls.
And gifts - toys on the Christmas tree - are sacrifices to the gods. Thus, a tree seen in a dream is sometimes correlated with these original trees. In such cases, it matters what the tree looks like, how its branches grow, and where the roots point.
A very interesting symbol is a tree turned upside down. This means that the basic, earthly foundations are connected with the higher, spiritual.
An inverted tree can also portend the death of a person. And there is no contradiction here, for the death of the body is the breakthrough of the Soul to heaven.
You may often dream that you are climbing a tree. This is as lucky a sign as climbing a mountain.
If climbing a mountain is more a symbol of material growth, then climbing a tree is a transition to a new spiritual level.
Tree Corresponds to the original trees.
In such cases, it matters what the tree looks like, how its branches grow, and where the roots point.
A very interesting symbol is a tree turned upside down.
This means that the basic, earthly foundations are connected with the higher, spiritual.
However, sometimes an inverted tree can also portend the death of a person.
And there is no contradiction here, for the death of the body is the breakthrough of the soul to heaven.
Climbing a tree - This is as good a sign as climbing a mountain.
But, if climbing a mountain is more a symbol of material growth, then climbing a tree is a transition to a new spiritual level.
In ancient rituals, an action such as climbing a pole was used.
Not so long ago, at Russian folk festivals, a clever guy, climbing to the top of a pole, received a pair of boots as a reward.
Often the consequence of this little sporting success was luck in life.
In most dreams where trees are seen, they are trees without any signs of species.
But they, these faceless trees, turned out to be the most informative signs of sleep.
Too small a tree Indicates your uncertainty, dependence on the powers that be.
A tree of normal size will emphasize that you feel free and independent.
The huge tree encourages you to scale back your ambitions.
Or maybe you saw flowers on the tree in your dream? Then, perhaps, a sentimental relationship with someone awaits you, the blossoming of new feelings.
You should pay close attention to such a message as fruit on a tree. On the one hand, they portend success and effectiveness in business and feelings. On the other hand, in our dreams fruits often fall, are wormy, and unripe. This suggests that someone else can benefit from the results of your activities.
Interpretation of dreams fromThe trunk of the fruit tree broke. How can I help?
Date: 2012-05-04
What to do if your favorite varietal plum, cherry plum, apple tree, pear, cherry breaks in two? There is no limit to the gardener's grief. And it’s already too late to say that we should have taken care of proper pruning earlier. And who can foresee absolutely everything? And what should you do if you want to keep the tree in the same form, without leaving one half and sacrificing the other?
There is one way. Tested by me personally. True, this method is applicable only to young trees. Last year, in 2011, a strong storm passed through our village. On mature tall trees in the forest nearby, thick branches broke and were carried far away by the wind. And after the hurricane, we discovered that our varietal cherry plum had broken in two! The disappointment was already mentioned in the first paragraph, so we began to think about how to save the tree, both halves, since the cherry plum tree had broken exactly in half. And they came up with it. And they risked leaving both halves. I didn’t have time to take pictures then, but in this 2012 season I’m posting the result of our treatment of cherry plum.
And this is what we came up with. We accurately connected the broken halves, giving the tree its previous appearance, tightly wrapping it with plastic film, which we will not remove for another couple of years. From above, the wound was carefully lubricated with garden varnish to prevent the penetration of rain moisture and insects that love sweet juice.
By the way, at one time we did the necessary pruning against the growth of the cherry plum with a “slingshot”, which can be seen in the picture, yes, apparently we missed it. And in the picture you see a cut up plastic bottle. This is not just like that: with such bottles we protect the fruit trunks from damage to the bark while working with the trimmer. This is true, by the way.
Back on topic. Now the problem of fusion of the halves of the trunk has arisen: after all, if the cherry plum sways even slightly from the summer breeze, the edges of the wound will constantly move relative to each other and you can forget about fusion. It is necessary to somehow fix the trunk in such a way that the tension of the wood from the branches is not transferred to the damaged trunk with a crack. That is, you need to put a kind of “plaster” on the wound. The standard is short, so nothing will work with it. And we decided to fix the skeletal branches.
We stuck three metal pipes at an angle and deeper (in the absence of suitable fittings) around the tree and connected them at the top, like the edges of a triangular pyramid.
And to them, to these pipes, skeletal branches were tied with strong twine at different levels without tension, just as they grew in their natural position
To prevent the string from cutting into the bark of the branches, they wrapped them with pieces of rubber hose.
The result is that this year our cherry plum is preparing for abundant flowering.
It turned out not very aesthetically pleasing, but the excellent variety was preserved. Now all that remains is to adjust the garters every season as the cherry plum grows. We hope that in three or four years it will be possible to remove the “plaster”. Or maybe not - the future will tell. In any case, cherry plum will continue to delight us with its harvest for at least ten years.
p.s. I think that this method can also be applied to other short fruit trees, unless another method of treatment is found. Moreover, this method can also be used to prevent breakage in problem seedlings until they get stronger.
If such a problem occurs in your garden, know that it is not accidental. The problems were laid down a long time ago, even when planting fruit trees, when it is difficult for a non-specialist to assess the prospects for their development. First of all, this is the landing scheme. A typical mistake, especially in small areas, is insufficient nutrition area for future trees, both soil and light. This is not immediately obvious, but after a few years it becomes clear that 3 m distances between trees are not enough. But when the seedlings were planted, there was plenty of empty space! And I wanted to plant them in larger numbers, so that there would be different varieties and breeds. And ten years have not passed, and the crowns of the trees have closed, rushed upward towards the light, it is difficult to walk between them, you can’t sow anything in the spaces between the rows.
It was high time to take up the pruning shears and saw without waiting for an extreme harvest. Pruning is precisely what is needed to limit peripheral growth, illuminate the center of the crown, strengthen the skeleton, and largely regulate the harvest load from year to year. Removing vertical extensions of skeletal branches and transferring them to a horizontal plane provides just such an effect. And if appropriate activities have not been carried out in the garden since planting, then troubles cannot be avoided.
But what to do if a large branch breaks off, and even part of the trunk looks torn? Leaving an injury unattended means greatly reducing your harvest, and the tree’s life itself.
Breakage in the upper tier...
This is not a disaster yet - the surface of the wounds in this area is usually not very large. However, attempts to “put it back” (fix the branches in the same place, apply splints) rarely have a positive effect. Even close contact of fresh wounds, alas, does not ensure the fusion of parts, much less the former strength. Water will still get into the crevice, and with it a fungal infection, and insects will find their way. Therefore, “amputation” is preferable, especially if there is a suitable branch that can replace the central conductor. If you cut out the damaged part above it, then after 2–4 years the crown can be restored from the grown branches. The operation must be emergency - that is, such branches are removed immediately, leaving a protective stump for the winter, or temporarily fixed, preventing movement and, if possible, harvesting. The remaining stump or damaged branch is removed according to all the rules in early spring, since active wound healing will begin at this time.
Accident below
A fault in the lowest tier is a much more serious situation. There is nowhere to retreat here, there is only a standard below. We have to preserve what is left. In each specific case, the solution may be different. It all depends on the age of the tree, the condition of the trunk and its thickness, and the area of the wound surface. In any case, it is not advisable to lift branches that have fallen to the ground. They need to be cut from the trunk in the place where the splitting of wood fibers ends, the surface of the wound should be smoothed out as much as possible with a chisel and, after a short drying, painted over with oil paint or covered with garden varnish. It is better to tighten partial fractures with wire or cable, making sure to lay a bandage of planks in the places where they come into contact with the bark. The tree wears such a corset until its last days. But at the same time, the tree can successfully bear fruit for many more decades. You just need to take measures to prevent a hollow from forming at the site of the crevice: cover it with garden varnish, cover it with sheet plastic or iron. Well, if the tree has completely lost its appearance, and, in addition, it still has many defects - frost holes, hollows, etc., then this tree has no prospects and it is better to part with it. At a distance of 2–2.5 m in a free space, you can plant a new seedling, if necessary, but not in the place of a removed tree of the same species.
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